Couture Jacket Breakdown

Taken from Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer

Characteristics of a Couture Jacket
taken from page 165

Jacket Front Breakdown

Taken from page 168

First Fitting
Taken from page 169

Check List:-

• Roll line on lapels (should hug shoulder)
• Undercollar (should hug neck and cover CB neckline seam)
• Back armscye (should hug body)
• Button and pocket placement
• Hemline

Taping Front Edge of Jacket
Taken from page 172

Second Fitting
Taken from page 173

Check list:-

• All previous fitting corrections.
• Hang and length of sleeve.
• Garment edges (should hang perpendicular to floor).

Making and Setting Shoulder Pads
 Taken from page 180

Random note but look into stay tapes in the lining of suit jackets.

Tailoring Reading List

Reading list for Tailoring:-
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/t/reading-list-tailoring/
http://www.academia.edu/6423285/Menswear_Pattern_Cutting 
Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket by Editors of Creative Publishing 

The Complete Book of Tailoring by Adele P Margolis

Basic Tailoring parts Break Down:-
http://www.blacklapel.com/thecompass/anatomy-of-a-suit-jacket-fused-vs-canvassed/
http://www.deoost.nl/suit-jacket-construction-bespoke-full-semi-canvas-unstructured-unlined-fused-bespoke/
http://www.themodestman.com/alterations-101-mens-suit-jackets-and-blazers/

Tips and Tricks Blog:-
http://www.deoost.nl/blog-bespoke-tailoring-suits-sartorial-pakken/

Fabrics Ideas and Suggestions:-
http://www.deoost.nl/cloth-suit-shirt-stof-maatpak-maathemd-trouwpak-jasjes-broeken-jacquet/

Fittings Techinques:-
https://www.moderntailor.com/static/mt/men_suit_measureguide.pdf

Key Links for Research and Refrence

Great articals about men's fashion:-
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/
http://www.economist.com/node/17722802
http://www.esquire.com/style/style-evolution-0908#slide-4
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Category:Mens_Historical_Clothing

Great Blog:-
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2010/02/brief-evolution-of-mens-18th-century.html

Wonderful Website for break down of men's fashion with links to key items:-
http://www.menswearhistory.com/
http://lifestyle.howstuffworks.com/style/fashion/trends-looks/100-years-of-mens-fashion.htm#page=1

History of Suits:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits

Reading list:-
http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/mens-fashion-book-library-guide/
http://images.library.wisc.edu/HumanEcol/EFacs/MillineryBooks/MBDooleyClothing/reference/humanecol.mbdooleyclothing.i0024.pdf

Glossery of Men's Wear Terms:-
http://www.history.org/history/clothing/men/mglossary.cfm

The Start of a New Research Project

 The History of Men's Formal Attire.

From starting this project I want to highlight certain aspects I wish to cover:- I want to cover general silhouette of men's formal wear, techniques used to construct key garments of that era, fabrics used and other points of interest. Key time periods I will cover:-
Medieval/ Dark Ages
Tudors
Elizabethan/Renaissance
The Stuarts
Georgian
Regency
Victorian
Edwardian
1920-1940
1950-2000

From my observations of first starting this project I've realised that information is not as readily available as with females fashion. I think this might be because men's fashion did not change as frequently as women's or as dramatical. It was mainly changed by changing cuts of jackets, trousers or shirts.

This is a good starting reference. Credit to:- http://terrizae.deviantart.com/art/Western-Fashion-Timeline-205570036

19th Century Basic Break Down

Credit:- http://terrizae.deviantart.com/art/19th-Century-Fashion-Timeline-462575158