Notes from Ultimate Guide to sewing Tailored Jackets

Standards of A Well-Tailored Jacket or Coat:-

• Garment has straight, thin edges, sharp corners, smooth curves and all handwork is inconspicuous.
• Front edges, well finished edges on the vents, pocket flaps, lapels, collar points rolled in towards the body ( never outwards).
• Seams and darts are smooth and straight with no crooks or puckers.
• Facing and hem edges are attached so they don't show from the right side.
• Sleeves hang straight without diagonal wrinkles in the sleeve cap.
• Lining has enough wearing ease so movement does not cause strain on the fabric.
• Buttons fit buttonholes easily and lifted away by shanks to prevent wear and strain.
• Pockets lie flat and fit the curve of the body.

Tailoring Method see pages 65
Custom:- Traditional methods of tailoring but time consuming.

• Hand Padstitching is used to attach the interfacing and to shape the garment.
• Hair Canvas sew-in interfacing is used to shape the garment front, under collar and hems.
• Taping the lapel roll line and front edges with stay tape is done by hand.
• Lining is inserted by hand.

Fusible:- Fusible interfacing does not require pad stitching and is made up by machine apart from setting in the lining sleeves and sewing the hems.

• Fusible interfacing is used to shape the garment front, front facing, upper collar, undercollar and hems.
• Taping the lapel roll line by machine may be done but taping the front edges is not necessary.
• Lining is inserted by machine, except for the sleeve lining which is attached by hand.

Machine:- Made up entirely by machine apart from setting in the lining sleeves and sewing the hems.

• Machine Pad stitching is used to apply interfacing and to shape the under collar: lapels may also be pad stitched by machine.
• Hair canvas sew-in interfacing is used to shape the garment front, undercollar and hems.
• Taping the lapel roll line is done by machine and taping the front edges is not necessary.
• Lining is inserted by machine, except for the sleeve lining which is attached by hand.

Combination:- Made up of different combinations of tailoring methods. Made up of any of the previous methods.

Selecting A Pattern page 14:-Research everywhere to key shapes and details. Go to shops to try them on and see what lengths, fabrics and details suit your figure. Try to pick a shape that is timeless so it will never go out for fashion as they are very expensive when made well. Make sure it will complement your wardrobe.

Time Savers:-
- When time is limited opt for a shawl collar to save time.
- Dolman or raglan sleeve styles also offer easier construction.
- Patch pockets are easier than welt pockets. Welt need careful cutting/stitching and take practise to get right.


Selecting the Right Fabric:- page 16
For first projects wool is recommended as it presses and shapes very easily. Stitching is hidden easily by texture. However hard-surfaced wool worsteds are bad for tailoring. Avoid patterns for first projects because they are complicated.
Three tests for selecting a tailoring fabric:-

• Crush the fabric in your hands to check resilience. If it creases the fabric will be more difficult to tailor.
• Push fabric with your thumbs to check durability. If yarns separate and it doesn't recover it's shape it will stretch out of shape when sewing.
• Test fabric drape by placing fabric over bust line. If fabric doesn't fall into folds it will be difficult to tailor.

 Remember if you use a patterned fabric to line up the pattern so they run and lie properly.
Interfacing page 20:-

• Sew-in  interfacing:- Use hair canvas for shaping the under collar, lapel and hems. A lightweight woven interfacing or broadcloth are used for back stay like muslin. Lambswool may be used where soft padding is desired such as sleeve heads or to add warmth to the jacket.
• Fusible interfacing:- different weights will vary the softness of the interfacing allowing for a sharp or soft look. fusible fabric is not suitable for fabric that becomes damaged by prolonged exposure to heat or heavily textured fabrics as it will come off after awhile. Do not use it on fabrics which are treated for water repellent or stain resistant.

Lining page 24:-
Fabric weave:- Satin feels smooth but has float yarns which snags easily. Twill weaves are stronger than plain and satin weaves.  Some lining fabrics have woven jacquard or dobby designs. If the design has long floats, they may catch on watches and jewellery.

Lining colour:- Choose a solid colour which matches or blends with the fabric. Be careful with patterns as they might clash with other garments you might wear with it.

Outerwear lining:- Special lining fabrics for winter coats are available.  There are different weights and properties depending on the lining.



I need to buy this book as it is so amazing for tailoring advice.