Tudors Construction Techinques

I decided to start this research at the Tudor ere as it was the first time that there was a noticeable different between the class and between formal and day wear. Different methods were being used and more fabrics were being used. Before Tudors men more oubliettes, breeches or hoses, tunics, cloaks and leather shoes. For formal occasions they would embellish there outfits to an extent with better fabrics and belts but not to the extent the Tudors went.

Garment Details:-

Fabrics used and how they were used:-

Techniques and Methods used:-

• The stitches are all done by hand.
• Basting is often used to keep layers together by hands. Stitches are removed once the garment is finished.
• Binding and facing this is for finishing edges. Binding a strip of fabric encloses the raw edges and is visible from the outside of the garment. A facing is applied to the inside of the garment and is not visible on the right side.
• Whipping This is used on bulky areas of garments. The fabric is whipped together to hold them.
• Working with leather and fur:- thinner layers of leather can be sewn like other fabrics but thicker ones need special treatment. seam allowances are not added and edges are joined with a but stitch. A leather-working tool with a flat spike called an awl is used to make the holes for the stitches.two needles are threaded with waxed linen thread and the stitches are worked in tandem. The tension is pulled up evenly as the stitches progress. fur lining and facings had there edges finished before being inserted into the fabric. The edges were whipped together. Use cotton tape or bias binding for curved edges on the edge to keep strengthened.
• Grading is used where a number of layers of fabric have been sewn together. Bulk is minimized by trimming each of the layers down by slightly different amounts.
• Matching buttons to complete a garment are made by hand. Often using the same or complementing fabric. You can also make thread buttons.
• Boning started to be used for corsets for both men and women.
• Clothes started to be slashed and quilted to give garments texture.

• Buttonholes are made by marking the area with a small box of tight stitches, cut the box and whip stitch the edge so it doesn't fray. Eyelets are made forcing forcing a knitting needle through the fabric without damaging the fibres. The edge of the eyelet is sewn tightly then bound like the button hole.
• Hooks and eyes they sew on to each side of the fastening. Alternate hooks and eyes sewn to the inside edge of a garment. So it goes hook, eyes and hook and the alternative on the other side to stop the garment from coming undone.
• Different types of gathering are used like knife pleats, box pleats and cartridge pleats. All of them used for different things and different looks to a garment.

Fun fact:- Boys wore skirts instead of breeches right up until they were 7 years old.

References:-
The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/16th_Century_Fashion
http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_handtech.htm