Day One of Jacket Construction

The day started with printing of the references and circling the key details I liked on each coat with notes about other features I might want to try on the stand. The key things I highlighted fabric the jacket was:-

• Peter pan collar combined with a lapel collar which could change between the two. May also try a hood, shawl collar.
• Cuff  with buttons or panel at the cuff maybe in a different fabric and cord details like with Justaucorps jackets (see previous artistic.)
• Four panel back like with the Victorian coats. The panels at the back will split and become either pleats or gathered (I will try both.)
• Pockets maybe flap pockets or welt pockets maybe shaped. I will try that and others.
• I will use a shaped sleeve as see in the Victorian jacker picture.
• I'm still undecided about fastenings as the collar I go with will effect this.
• I'm considering have a plain coloured cotton fabric outside and then a light cotton lining in a print I saw from Rement Kings.

I started using a Victorian coat pattern because the original jacket was shaped for a mans body and it did not have the paneled back details which this pattern does. I felt the time taken to adjust the pattern and making it up from scratch than using this pattern. It had far more of the elements I wanted from my jacket.

I managed to draft up the pattern and adjust the length and for the stand before cutting it in calico. I will start modifying the pattern on the stand tomorrow and try out the detail options I'm not sure about. I also need to extend the front because it does not close properly.

Justaucorp Coat

Justaucorps Coat VS Modern Day

Types of coats based off of Justaucorps coats:-
Frock/Princess coats- is a man's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt sometimes with extra pleat or fabric. Popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. The double-breasted style is sometimes called a Prince Albert. The frock coat is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back. These include the reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body. A high degree of waist suppression, where the coat's diameter round the waist is much less than round the chest. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape.


Morning / Cutaway coat- is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, more serve in the cutaway coat. Topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam for the cutaway coat. The lapels are usually pointed , no notch. When it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress, and is usually worn with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers. The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat.


Suit coat/formal wear- Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat.









  

Trench coats- is a coat often made of waterproof fabric. It generally has a removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and the classic versions come in various lengths ranging from just above the ankles (the longest) to above the knee (the shortest). It was originally an item of clothing for Army officers (developed prior to the war but adapted for use in the trenches of the First World War, hence its name) and shows this influence in its styling.
Traditionally this garment is double-breasted with 10 front buttons, has wide lapels, a storm flap and pockets that button-close. The coat is belted at the waist with a self-belt, as well as having straps around the wrists that also buckle up. The coat also often has shoulder straps that button-close; those were a functional feature in a military context. The traditional colour of a trench coat was khaki, although newer versions come in many colours.

Influences in Modern Fashion:-

Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Just-Au-Corps Duffle Coat

Yumi Double Breasted Coat

French Connection Smart catch belted trench coat

Karen Millen Classic investment coat

ASOS Vila Trench Coat

Forever21 Double-Breasted Princess Coat

Justaucorps Coat Techinques and Details

Fabrics and Techniques
Decorative buttons and buttonholes on the coats. Braid trim, ribbon with coloured thread and delicately embroidered. Fabrics started to become much more lavis. Muslin, cotton, linen and lace were still widely used for shirts and insides of jackets. Silks, heavy cotton, velvets and damask were used mainly on men's jackets.
Button Details and Embroidery






















Pockets

Cuffs

Back Pleats and Embroidery Details

 

Back Panels and Shaped Sleeves

Taken from Pinterest:-
https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/166281411217576019/

Justaucorps Coat Details and Key Elements

Key Elements/Details of this style of Coat:-

• Centre front fastening with shaped bottom away from the centre front of the body.
• Button fastenings on each side.
• Flat pockets at the hip.
• Gathered or pleated skirt with a curved edge.
• Knee length.
• Deep cuffs.
• Mandarin collar or stand collar.

Materials to Use:-

• Wool, Linen or Cottton.
• Fabric which holds creases well for the pleats and gathers.
• Stiff enough to hold the structure of the cuffs.
• Interfacing or tailors canvas to be used on the breast or chest area.
• Buttons for the fastenings and for decorative details if required.
• Pipping, panels, lace details and other details required.

 

Justaucorps Coat History

As you will have seen from my last project I have briefly covered Justaucorps. So I would like to go a little more in depth into the history of this coat style.


I will start with a description of the type of coat and were it originates from:-
A Justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the later part of the 17th century and continued through to the 18th century. This coat originated from French and was introduced in England as part of a three-piece suit. The rest of the suit consists of breeches and a long vest (the first development of the waistcoat). This served as the first stages of the modern-day three-piece suit.

17th Century 
This coat replaced the doublet from the Tudor to the Stuart period. The Justacorps was worn to the knee, covering an equal length vest and breeches underneath.The coat opens centre front, typically it's fastened using many buttons and buttonholes lining the entire length of the opening. The sleeves were fitted and shaped forward with large, deep cuffs. Justaucorps also featured decorative pockets, often placed too low for the wearer to take functional advantage. Justaucorps were very ornate in design and made of luxurious fabrics; silk, satin, brocade, damask, and wool were commonly used. Justacorps often were accented with contrasting fabrics of different colours and patterns, displayed through turned back cuffs or a decorative sash worn across the shoulders.
Two styles of Justaucorp formed. One remained fitted with no extra pleats or gathers. The back was split for ease of movement when riding and sitting.The other versions feature a more accentuated, flared skirt through the addition of gores and pleats. The edge of skirt starts to curve up. This style of Justaucorps also featured slits at the side seams so the wearer could access their sword or money.
The main wearers of this coat were aristocratic and men with wealth or position in sociality.

18th Century
The Justaucorps changed in appearance. The garment’s opening remained at centre front, however the buttons only extended to the waist area, allowing extra room for a fuller skirt. The cuffs became tighter and no longer folded back. Pockets were functional now located at the hip. The opening of the Justaucorps was rounded towards the mid chest and flared away from the body. Forwards the end of the 18th century, Justaucorps decreased their skirt fullness bringing the bottom in narrower. The curved skirt edge was replaced by the straight edge again. Textiles for this style of Justaucorps varied depending on the situation they were used . Durable fabrics, like wool, were used in everyday situations. Justaucorps worn in this situation typically had less ornamentation compared to ones worn in elegant, formal situations. These coats were made of ornate fabrics like silk, brocade and decorated with elaborate embroidery and lace. The Justaucorps was the first development of the frock coat which appeared much later in the Victorian Period.

Coat References from the V&A:-
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/interactive-formal-wool-coat-1700-5/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/introduction-to-18th-century-fashion/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/interactive-mens-formal-daywear-about-1745/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/interactive-mans-beige-wool-suit-1775-85/
https://www.pinterest.com/loiselle0754/justaucorps/

References:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Justacorps
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/articles/victorian-articles/the-history-of-the-frock-coat.html
http://www.gentlemenoffortune.com/Justaucorps.htm
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-17th-Century/Justaucorps.html