Costume Development and Work Space Blog: Justaucorps Coat History

As you will have seen from my last project I have briefly covered Justaucorps. So I would like to go a little more in depth into the history of this coat style.

I will start with a description of the type of coat and were it originates from:-
A Justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the later part of the 17th century and continued through to the 18th century. This coat originated from French and was introduced in England as part of a three-piece suit. The rest of the suit consists of breeches and a long vest (the first development of the waistcoat). This served as the first stages of the modern-day three-piece suit.

17th Century
This coat replaced the doublet from the Tudor to the Stuart period. The Justacorps was worn to the knee, covering an equal length vest and breeches underneath.The coat opens centre front, typically it's fastened using many buttons and buttonholes lining the entire length of the opening. The sleeves were fitted and shaped forward with large, deep cuffs. Justaucorps also featured decorative pockets, often placed too low for the wearer to take functional advantage. Justaucorps were very ornate in design and made of luxurious fabrics; silk, satin, brocade, damask, and wool were commonly used. Justacorps often were accented with contrasting fabrics of different colours and patterns, displayed through turned back cuffs or a decorative sash worn across the shoulders.
Two styles of Justaucorp formed. One remained fitted with no extra pleats or gathers. The back was split for ease of movement when riding and sitting.The other versions feature a more accentuated, flared skirt through the addition of gores and pleats. The edge of skirt starts to curve up.This style of Justaucorps also featured slits at the side seams so the wearer could access their sword or money.
The main wearers of this coat were aristocratic and men with wealth or position in sociality.

18th Century
The Justaucorps changed in appearance. The garment’s opening remained at centre front, however the buttons only extended to the waist area, allowing extra room for a fuller skirt. The cuffs became tighter and no longer folded back. Pockets were functional now located at the hip. The opening of the Justaucorps was rounded towards the mid chest and flared away from the body. Forwards the end of the 18th century, Justaucorps decreased their skirt fullness bringing the bottom in narrower. The curved skirt edge was replaced by the straight edge again. Textiles for this style of Justaucorps varied depending on the situation they were used . Durable fabrics, like wool, were used in everyday situations. Justaucorps worn in this situation typically had less ornamentation compared to ones worn in elegant, formal situations. These coats were made of ornate fabrics like silk, brocade and decorated with elaborate embroidery and lace. The Justaucorps was the first development of the frock coat which appeared much later in the Victorian Period.