Costume Development and Work Space Blog: Justaucorps Coat VS Modern Day

Types of coats based off of Justaucorps coats:-

Frock/Princess coats- is a man's coat characterised by a knee-length skirt sometimes with extra pleat or fabric. Popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. The double-breasted style is sometimes called a Prince Albert. The frock coat is a fitted, long-sleeved coat with a centre vent at the back. These include the reverse collar and lapels, where the outer edge of the lapel is cut from a separate piece of cloth from the main body. A high degree of waist suppression, where the coat's diameter round the waist is much less than round the chest. This is achieved by a high horizontal waist seam with side bodies, which are extra panels of fabric above the waist used to pull in the naturally cylindrical drape.

Morning / Cutaway coat- is a single-breasted coat, with the front parts usually meeting at one button in the middle and curving away gradually into a pair of tails behind, more serve in the cutaway coat. Topped by two ornamental buttons on the waist seam for the cutaway coat. The lapels are usually pointed , no notch. When it was first introduced, the step lapel was common, since it was worn as half dress. The coat can be grey or black as part of morning dress, and is usually worn with striped, or very occasionally checked, trousers. The morning coat may also be worn as part of a morning suit, which is mid-grey with matching trousers and waistcoat.

Suit coat/formal wear- Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: a two-piece suit has a jacket and the trousers; a three piece adds a waistcoat.

Trench coats- is a coat often made of waterproof fabric. It generally has a removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and the classic versions come in various lengths ranging from just above the ankles (the longest) to above the knee (the shortest). It was originally an item of clothing for Army officers (developed prior to the war but adapted for use in the trenches of the First World War, hence its name) and shows this influence in its styling.
Traditionally this garment is double-breasted with 10 front buttons, has wide lapels, a storm flap and pockets that button-close.The coat is belted at the waist with a self-belt, as well as having straps around the wrists that also buckle up. The coat also often has shoulder straps that button-close; those were a functional feature in a military context. The traditional colour of a trench coat was khaki, although newer versions come in many colours.

Influences in Modern Fashion:-