1920s

1920s
Edward The Prince of Wales in 1920 was still young and was seen as the example of the new generation. His clothing were comfortable and freedom of movement; sweaters, soft collars and wide trousers with large pockets- this was seen as a rebellion against the old suit dress. This was the era were suit collars form started to change. Soft and permanently attached to the shirt or stiff and detachable. Supporters of the stiff collar saw it a stand against the modern casual manner of dress that was being introduced by Americas massive import at the time. Soft collar won and became the normal shirt to way every day. In summer it was even worn without a tie, unbuttoned(scandals) and draped wide across the jackets lapels in what was known as a Byron collar. At night, wing collars remained chic with tails. The collar was now attached, semi-stiff, turn-down collar with dinner jacket or tuxedo.

Men's trousers became the opposite other the previous era, going from being straight legged or knickerbockers to baggy wide legged trousers often with a turn up also called Oxford Bags. The fashion of loose fitted trousers would last until the advent of denim jeans 30 years later. The bottoms of these trousers measured 28"-40" and were worn by Oxford university students. Golfs old knickerbocker trousers were replaced by fuller cut trousers that allowed the fabric to fall 42 below the knees thus giving them the name "plus-fours". This type of mens wear led to a widely-worn suits that were better for sport and travelling for all ages. The look kept people looking classic but comfortable. The Prince of Wales yet again helped to spur this trend on by starting to have his jacket shoulders cut half an inch wider so they sat off the natural shoulder. He also embraced the American trend of wearing a belt instead of braces. Pullovers were introduced as a none sportswear item. The French defined three types of knitwear. First was 'le sweater', made of fine wool, lightweight and he coolest type of knitwear. Next came 'le pullover', the name referring to the way in which it was put on over the head, which was slightly heavier and warmer than 'le sweater'. These started to be worn with the suit trousers, shirt, tie and suit jacket. The necklines varied from circle to V-necks.

Fabrics ranged in design and style. Grom sheer linen and thick silks for shirts and woollens for trousers.
Colours were still very muted but patterns like check and strips started to be used more and more in formal and work wear. Tweed started to take a transformation, they started to come up with lighter weight tweed to be worn every day suits. Harris Tweed became the most popular but it was not water-proof like other Tweeds. It was dyed using heather, seaweeds and lichens and finished in the Outer Hebridean Islands of Lewis-Harris which insured it was a genuine Harris Tweed with it's stamp. This however meant that he fabric was far from inexpensive. Another popular fabric was flannel which used to be used for underwear during the 19th century. They then started to use this fabric was trousers often in white/cream, teamed with a navy/brown blazer jacket. Flannel often went baggy, shiny and discoloured when worn for long periods. One of the iconic items from this time as based around these trousers paired with a white open-neck shirt, a brightly striped flannel blazer and draw boater.

Colours started become more obvious in he 1920s as people started to experiment with strong colours and wilder patterns to accent clothes they were wearing. Was in the 1920s often a luxurious full-length silk, velvet or brocade affair was worn to relax in at home in the evenings after men had removed their jackets, simpler to the smoking jackets worn in the 1910s.


References:-
Men's Fashion in the Twentieth Century from Frock coats to Intelligent Fibres by Maria Costantino
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Category:Mens_Historical_Clothing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits
http://www.costumegallery.com/1922/Rubber/index.html
http://lifestyle.howstuffworks.com/style/fashion/trends-looks/100-years-of-mens-fashion.htm#page=2
http://www.costumegallery.com/1923/Men/
http://www.costumegallery.com/1923/Uniforms/
http://bespokeunit.com/the-waistcoat-the-history-background/ 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collar_%28clothing%29