Elizabethan/Renaissance 16th Century

While researching this period in time I've noticed that not very many different construction techniques were used for making there clothes compared to the Tudor period. Shapes and cut changed slightly but manufacturing was still the same.

Lots of the Tudor decorating techniques were still widely used:- long narrow slashes, braid-decorated sleeves, embroidery, narrow ruffs, lace edgings, padded epaulettes, long panes to the knee, large circler and square buttons.

Table of patterns, fabrics, colours even the clothes they could and could not wear used to be depended of social rank of the Tudor/ Elizabethan sociality:- http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing-allowed-men.htm

Breakdown of Elizabethan Dress for Men:-

Underclothes!	Over Clothes!
Shirt	Doublet
Stockings or hose	Separate sleeves
Codpiece	Breeches
	Belt
	Ruff
	Cloak
	Shoes
	Hat

Cloak/Coats/Jerkins
Small should capes with ribbon decoration were very popular as they were practical for riding as they kept your shoulders warm without too much extra fabric. Jerkins commonly didn't have sleeves in this time and often had fur linings to act as a body warmer in colder weather.The shape was very much similar to the Tudor cloaks, coats and jerkins but what the cloaks were trimmed with gave in identification of your place in society:-

• Cloaks trimmed with Sable Fur were only worn by Royalty, Dukes, Marquises, and Earls and Duchesses, Marquises and Countesses.
• Cloaks trimmed with Lucernces ( Fur from the lynx) were only worn by Dukes, Marquises, Earls, and their children, Viscounts, Barons, and Knights of the Garter and their wives, or any person being of the Privy Council.
• Cloaks trimmed with Genet ( this fur came from a member of the mongoose family, but similar to a cat) were only worn by Dukes, Marquises, Earls, and their children, Viscounts, Barons, and Knights of the Garter and their wives, or any person being of the Privy Council.
• Cloaks trimmed with Leopards were only worn by Baron's sons, Knights and Ambassadors and their wives.
• Cloaks trimmed with Wolf were only worn by Baron's sons, Knights and Ambassadors and their wives.
• Cloaks trimmed with Foins (Fur of the beech marten, a weasel-like animal ) were only worn by courtiers.
• Cloaks trimmed with Budge (Lambskin from North Africa and Spain) were only worn by courtiers.

Cod Piece

Early hoses were fitted to the leg but open at the crotch. Men's members simply hung loose under the doublet. Fashion dictated a shortening of the doublet which often resulted in exposed members. The origin of the codpiece was a small bag with a flap at the fork of the hose which was fastened by ties. Codpieces became designed to emphasize the male genitalia and were eventually padded, decorated and enlarged to astounding proportions.

Doublet/Shirt

• The materials that shirts were made of varying kinds of linen and for the Upper classes silk.
• Holland, Lawne, Camerick:- The three different types of expensive, very fine linen used at the time.
• All doublets and shirts were decorated with fine needlework, embroidery and trims of lace and ruffles.
• Sometimes stitched with open seams. Collars were often stand collars or tie necked and often gathered to the neck so they were airy and roomy.
• The price of shirts could be extremely expensive ranging from 10 shillings to an exhorbitant £20 ( which would probably have been for the shirts made of silk.)

During the latter part of the 16th Century the padding in doublets evolved into the peascod belly's; a style which ballooned out from the stomach, lending a curious pregnant air to the wearer. Sleeves were either sewn in or were detachable to allow for changing moods and climate.

Breeches

Trunk Hose - Very Short Breeches
These breeches were very short, covering just the trunk of the body. A tight fitting, full length hose was worn beneath them. Often paned (or pansied) with strips of fabric (panes) and padding over a full inner layer or lining. Popular in the second half of the 1500's.

Slops - Breeches
Loose, very full, hose reaching just below the knee, very large and wide and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes)

Galligaskin - Gally-hose Breeches
Originated in Gascony and introduced to England in the 1575 as a gift to the Court Fool. Loose, very full, hose reaching just below the knee, very large and wide and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes). were recorded in the Egerton Manuscript as having "pocketts, poyntes & a peire of netherstockes".

Common French Hose - Breeches
Common French Hose - very round, long, broad and wide worn by the Lower Classes

French Hose - Breeches
Semi-fitted breeches reaching beneath the knees. Paned and decorated with costly ornaments and canions and worn by nobility and the Upper Class men

Pluderhosen Breeches
A form of paned or pansied slops with a very full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee which originated in Germany 

Venetian Hose - Breeches
Originating in Venice, Italy. Semi-fitted and reaching beneath the knee and tied with silk attachment cords. Decorated with guards or rows of lace. Pockets were introduced into the seams.

 There were several types of breeches

• Two types of French hose
• Common French Hose - very round with length, breadth and width
• French hose - contained neither breadth or width but reaching beneath the knees. Paned and decorated with costly ornaments and canions
• Paned - Strips of fabric (panes) over a full inner layer or lining
• Canions, or cannions - tight fitting full length hose
• Gally Hose - very large and wide - reaching to the knees and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes)
• Venetian Hose - Reaching beneath the knee and tied with silk attachment cords. Decorated with guards or rows of lace.
• Trunks padded with horsehair.
• Knitted silk stockings. 

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Hats

• The taller the hat the more important the man - lower classes wore woollen flat caps
• The Muffin cap - worn by the lower classes in cheap linen ( similar to a cooks hat )
• Tall Crown hat worn by the Upper Class - made with expensive fabrics - silk velvet etc
• The Flat cap worn by the Upper and Lower Class
• The Toque - similar to a flat cap
• Hat decorations - All classes and ages wore feathers in their hats. Hats worn by the Upper Class were expensively decorated with jewelled bands (called bilaments), broaches, badges and ribbons
• A Fool's Cap featured hornes, eares, ill faces and other such fopperies and were worn by court jesters, or fools

Shoes

• Boots - Boots were made of smooth or wrinkled leather, fittings were loose or tight, used for riding and walking
• Gamache - A gamache was a high boot
• Buskins - Buskins were calf length shoes / boots
• Startups - Startups were leather shoes worn as protective coverings for outdoor use
• Pumps - Pumps were light, or single-soled slip-on shoes
• Chopines - Chopines, or Chapineys, were slip-on over shoes made of wood and covered with leather
• Clogs - The clog was an outdoor, wooden shoe
• Corked Shoes - Corked shoes featured a wedge of cork between the foot and the sole
• Galoche - A Galoche, or Galage, was a protective overshoe
• Pantofle - A Pantofle came in two styles - a protective, outdoor overshoe and a slipper for indoors
• Pinsons - A pinson or pincnet was a delicate shoe
• Shoes often had cork heels and long tongue shoes

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
http://www.cam.ac.uk/research/features/what-goes-up-must-come-down-a-brief-history-of-the-codpiece
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing-fashion-men.htm
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Tudor_Fashion.htm
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Elizabethan_Fashion_for_Men
http://www.shakespearesengland.co.uk/2010/01/13/mandillions-netherstocks-elizabethan-men-their-dress/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion
http://www.lepg.org/men.htm
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Men%27s_Fashion_During_the_Renaissance
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/