Extracts from The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh
"Pleated skirts to a man's silk dress coat of 1740s are stiffened with interlining of woven horsehair and buckram and lined with a further layer of unspun wool. This gives dramatic flare to the skirts causing them to stand out independently. Full skirts have open side seams which are kept in place by stays of chain-stitched thread and several buttons which hold the open seams together, and serve a decorative as well as a practical purpose. When open, the side seams and centre back vent, which had their origins in riding dress allowed the coat to drape comfortably when seated on a horse. stiff interlinings. layers of buckram to stiffen collar. Collars often had a point at the back. The fronts curve back sharply, the side seams have moved closer to the centre back and pleats are narrow."
1680-1880
"A layer one firm fabric between the lining and top layer to strength the fabric. Very skilful in making his pleat so that there is no gap. The front must then be stiffened with buckram. It is to the reverse side from top to bottom along the edges, four inches broad at the shoulder, widening to within in inches at the armhole, then narrowing to the seventh or eighth buttonhole. Then a strip of straight material is placed all long the edge, pleated to shape where the chest is rounded, and all three layers of stiffening are then whip-stitched to the edge of the coat. a small plastron of cotton wool is stitched to the buckram on the chest towards the collar-bone to fill in the hollow which is always found here."
"The skirt of the coat used to have a horsehair lining to hold it out, and was called a pannier (some people still like having a small pannier coming half away down the skirt). Work from the skirt opening upwards on jackets to ensure they line up. Pleat numbers four in the front and two and half in the back."
"The waist coat is made is made in the same way but only one buckram interlining which does not go as far as the shoulder.Shoulders of the doublet were set further back."
Pictures taken from Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th Centuries by Avril Hart and Susan North and The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh
1680-1880
"A layer one firm fabric between the lining and top layer to strength the fabric. Very skilful in making his pleat so that there is no gap. The front must then be stiffened with buckram. It is to the reverse side from top to bottom along the edges, four inches broad at the shoulder, widening to within in inches at the armhole, then narrowing to the seventh or eighth buttonhole. Then a strip of straight material is placed all long the edge, pleated to shape where the chest is rounded, and all three layers of stiffening are then whip-stitched to the edge of the coat. a small plastron of cotton wool is stitched to the buckram on the chest towards the collar-bone to fill in the hollow which is always found here."
"The skirt of the coat used to have a horsehair lining to hold it out, and was called a pannier (some people still like having a small pannier coming half away down the skirt). Work from the skirt opening upwards on jackets to ensure they line up. Pleat numbers four in the front and two and half in the back."
"The waist coat is made is made in the same way but only one buckram interlining which does not go as far as the shoulder.Shoulders of the doublet were set further back."
Pictures taken from Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th Centuries by Avril Hart and Susan North and The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh
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