Day 5 Pattern solved

They jacket is finally complete and looks good. We finally solved the problem of the extra fabric across the bust. We opened the shoulder seam and took the top of the sleeve head out and then arranged the shoulder and extra fabric so that it went into the sleeve there for removing the fabric and moving the sleeve up to its normal point. The difference that made was massive, obviously I had then made on extra fabric at the neck line to reshape because everything had been pulled to the side but it worked very well. I then re-cut the basic collar I’d cut before and then added fabric to lengthen and reshape. The process took some time but it was worth it when I saw the finally outcome. Now just to decide on my manufacturing process. I’ve decided to definitely use cotton tape of the edges of the coat to not lonely weight it but also because it gives a cleaner edge during construction. 

I have several options in ways to manufacture:-

1. To finish off the seams inside with a full Hong Kong finish (see other entry for details). This would mean not lining it properly however it means that it can’t only be backed in calico but because of the seam tape it would save time. There would still be an interfacing for the cuff, front panel and back neck line. I would need to make sure my hand sewing round these edges and the hem were very neat. I would also have to think about weighting the bottom edge so it can swish better and hold its shape. It also gives the edges of the right side a top stitch look because you can top stick the tape so it had a double line of stitching which could look nice. 
2. The other option is to fully line the jacket, I will need to look over how you can line pleats again, and I’d also have to cut out lining patterns. 
3. To half-line the jacket at either the top or bottom (most likely at the bottom for the weight) this could allow the top to remain light weight while allowing the bottom to have more weight for movement. It would also allow me to use both techniques.