Jacket Draping Techinques

Thanks to Gillian I realised my problems with with draping and had a great insight into different way of making the same effect.I need to remember that the process is more important than the final project. This articular is mainly to talk about different of getting fullness to a skirt or in this case a jacket. 

Splitting Pattern:-

So the key thing for this techniques is to decide where you want the flare to come from (bust, waist or hip). In the case of this jacket I wanted the flare to come from the hip. I worked out how many slips I wanted (I find four is a nice number because it helps to shape the pattern again). Make on the splits and the splitting point, you can cut into the line a little to make it sit flat. Measure the amount you want to split each section by and draw round it.

Pleats/Vents:- This is obvious but having pleats in the side seams and back. There are different types of pleats and they can vary in size of pleat and shaping between them. It's just a case of folding the pleats in the way which best suits the design and were you want the extra fabric to fall. The vent helps for the garment to sit open at the back so it sits wider without the extra fabric.

Flaring Panel in all areas before gathering or pleating:-

A method Gillian suggested that extending the side seam before gathering or pleating it back in to the size require before attaching it to the side seam back. This creates a smocking effect like this which could become a cute decorative feature of the jacket depending on the fabric used. Light weight fabric would work best.

Gathering into a pocket:-

Another way to make a jacket have more flare is to have gathering coming from the side pockets.

Bodice top and skirt circle pattern bottom/ Peplum:- This is a simple idea of creating a bodice block and adding in a circle skirt with a wide circle. Depending of the size of the circumference and the section takes for the skirt will depend of the fall of the fabric. It can be gather to the bodice for extra flare or none which can still flow ever nicely. Remember the smaller the inner circle the more drape. The wider the inner circle and the section cut from it the less flare and drape.