Day Two of Draping

So the start to the day wasn't great. When I got the jacket on the stand it wouldn't close at the bust so I opened the side seam and put in an extra 6 inches plus flare to see if that would help. It completely throw the rest of the jacket off apart from the back. Note to self- NEVER DO THAT AGAIN, it adds fabric in when its not needed and misshapes everything else. However it allowed me to have a chance to shape the back and add a box pleat into the back of the jacket. It creates beautiful floaty pleats. The pleats sits on the hip. From playing with the front I've realised I want a straight front with flared sides. I'm looking forward to try out different cuffs and collars next day. Gillian gave me these two books to look at for draping which really helped:- 

Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian by Sharon Sobel

Draping: The Complete Course by Karolyn Kiisel

So after seeing the box pleats and side pleats I shortened the shoulders, took in the back pleats more, took the sides out by 3 inches, slip the bottom of the front side panel (see Drapping entry for details) and tried the mock up again and the difference it made was massive difference. The front sat much nicer with a small flare at the sides but straight at the front. I would even add an extra pleat in the side seam for more of a skirt bottom. I only had to lower the neck point, change the arm hole and adjust the bust dart. I'm very happy with it now so I can progress next week to try techniques for sleeves, cuffs, collar and pockets.

These pictures really helped me today both from Alexander Mcqueen:-