I attached the collar and interfacing which sits very very well on the jacket I feel. I'm very happy with it. I am still waiting for more seam tape to finish the sleeve seams. Next time I will buy extra or make triple sure I get enough.
So one of the techniques I feel is very important for this jacket is the stay tape around the centre of the jacket. This ensures the jacket does not stretch out of shape and helps to give structure. I set it just above the pleats of the jackets.and hands stitched it in with cross stitch to allow for movement with the jacket. I decided that putting cotton tape around the jacket edge and hem would be both a waste of time and is unneeded. The jacket is of a substitutional weight and the interfacing gives the front edge enough structure to give a lovely crisp line.
As for the pockets I had to change the possession of them because they didn't match the tartan very well so it looked off. So I relined up my pocket away from my tailor markings I'd done in red. I attached them with an edge stitch on the patch and a simple straight stitch on the flap. I had to do a small zig-zag stitch at the edge to secure the edges as the edges of the lining were still rare and this helped to enclose them. I hand stitched the small Chinese knot buttons to the edge to close the pocket. A simpler style to the 18th century knots and cord details I'd looked at previously.
I next started on the lining. The most common way to line pleats is to cut them slightly bigger (1.5cm bigger)so that when it's put together it creates a pocket for the whole pleat to sit in wit it's seams edges together. I went for the option of making it the exact same as the button of the coat and folding the pleat edges back. Lining comes together very quickly. It's just putting it in that's the problem. You have to let the lining sit at least 1cm short so that it falls shorter than the edge of the hem line so it isn't seen.
So one of the techniques I feel is very important for this jacket is the stay tape around the centre of the jacket. This ensures the jacket does not stretch out of shape and helps to give structure. I set it just above the pleats of the jackets.and hands stitched it in with cross stitch to allow for movement with the jacket. I decided that putting cotton tape around the jacket edge and hem would be both a waste of time and is unneeded. The jacket is of a substitutional weight and the interfacing gives the front edge enough structure to give a lovely crisp line.
As for the pockets I had to change the possession of them because they didn't match the tartan very well so it looked off. So I relined up my pocket away from my tailor markings I'd done in red. I attached them with an edge stitch on the patch and a simple straight stitch on the flap. I had to do a small zig-zag stitch at the edge to secure the edges as the edges of the lining were still rare and this helped to enclose them. I hand stitched the small Chinese knot buttons to the edge to close the pocket. A simpler style to the 18th century knots and cord details I'd looked at previously.
I next started on the lining. The most common way to line pleats is to cut them slightly bigger (1.5cm bigger)so that when it's put together it creates a pocket for the whole pleat to sit in wit it's seams edges together. I went for the option of making it the exact same as the button of the coat and folding the pleat edges back. Lining comes together very quickly. It's just putting it in that's the problem. You have to let the lining sit at least 1cm short so that it falls shorter than the edge of the hem line so it isn't seen.
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