Victorian Corsets

A big change from the more comfortable Regency corsets. I think today these are the types of corsets most people think of first when the topic is thought up. they had such a massive impact on woman's bodies. They were all about making the waist like an hour glass or S shape. Pulling the waist in and  will pulling the bust in. Corsets stopped being worn at the hip and extended to several inches below the hip. They were made with whale bone or iron metal pieces, thus restricting movements. The were strung a set way with the knot in the middle so as to take in as much pressure as possible when tightening. See video:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKFuGAIUrBY

This caused massive health implications without even realising it. Doctors used to actually proscribe them to women for helping posture and getting rid of pregnancy fat. Corsets were even worn during pregnancy. The biggest problem was the miss placement of the organs which cold cause haemorrhaging, blood clots, weakness of muscles and organ damage or failer in worse cases.

Final Week of Panto Costume Construction

Date: 26-29/11/2013



































Not going to lie this week has been so hard. But it was all worth it.  I completed the costume...
Tasks completed:
- Attaching the skirt to the bodice
- Made two pairs of tights 
- Put in boning and bound the end of the bodice
- Made the wings
- Added on the fastenings
- Add managed to glitter her up :)

I'm very happy with the result and can't wait to see my fairy in full costume.

Learned: That its worth all the pain and frustration when the costumes finished.

Regency 1811- 1837

This is one of my favourite time periods for fashion because its so simple but looks so elegant. One of my favourite pieces I've found about this time period was a wonderful documentary were they recreated the ball in Pride and Prejudice:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01h8nFLsmB8
This is a must watch.

The Beginning:-
Fabrics which were widely used at the time included cotton, linen, muslin, wool fabrics and sheer fabrics. In richer societies silks and velvets were also used.  Striped and flowers were widely used as decoration. Embroidered bands, ribbons of different widths and lace were widely used and sot after for embellishing and adding detail to dresses. Pleats, ruffles and smocking were widely used on garments.

For the first time dresses were all in one piece with no bodice and skirt. Empire line dresses were widely worn. Dresses often has close fitting upper section with very gathered and loose fitting lower section. Shawl collars, low necklines, high collar with bow at the neck on jackets were all the rage with the younger generation. Lacy bonnet hats and older styled dresses with longer bodices were often worn by older woman. Tight fitted sleeves with full puff sleeves/ princess sleeves at the top were most common and often worn with just the puff sleeve during the summer.  High waisted coats were worn so as to complement the dresses underneath and often had a military look to them with deep collars and button details. Dresses were kept to an inch off the ground making it easier to walk and keep hems clean.

Accessories at the time were not elaborate with jewels and jewellery but more minimum. Wide brimmed hats with a shallow crown decorated with  flowers, ribbons/laces and  feathers also called bonnets were widely worn for daily wear and were often tied under the chin. Older women wore caps to cover the hair. Pearl necklaces and small chains were sometimes worn to big parties or events but not often worn daily.  Flat pumps and silk shoes for parties were widely worn. Narrow belts with buckle or ribbon were often worn to show off the high waist. Fans, parasols, elbow length gloves made from silk or lace were widely worn through high sociality. Small pearl buttons were often used on gowns and coats. Long shawls and scarf's tucked in round the neckline were often worn to add something different to the dresses.

The Change:-
Fashions started to go more extreme again with puff sleeves becoming more extravagant again and skirts started to have hoops under them to hold them out.  Multipliable layered collars and cuffs came in again. Elements from the Victorian era started to creep in like decorated hems, slopping shoulder-lines, drop earnings and big floral embroidery started to be used again.  Fringing on shawls, pleated collars, scalloped edges, narrow peplums, small narrow bonnets started to worn as dresses got wider again.

Movies and TV:- Emma 2009, Goyas Goests 2006, Pride and Prejudice 1995 series and 2005 movie, Vanity Fair 1998, Becoming Jane 2007, Bright Star 2009, Mansfield Park1999, Persuasion 1995,  Northanger Abbey 2007, Sense and Sensibility 1995, Little Dorrit 2008, Wuthering Heights 1992, The Count of Monte Cristo 2002, War and Peace 2007, Les Miserables 2012, Lost in Austin 2008, Byron 2003


References:-
Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/ppbrokil.html
http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/
http://thats-not-victorian.tumblr.com/post/34824134342/womens-fashion-timeline-19th-and-early-20th
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock

History Events:- Napoleonic wars. The First Railway. First Education Act.

Fashion Term Glosseries

http://www.modcloth.com/style_glossary
http://www.premierclothing.com/Extra/32-fashion-glossary/
http://www.history.org/history/clothing/women/wglossary.cfm

Complex Dipthongs

Sooo Hard >_<
ㅑ-ya
ㅕ-yeo
ㅠ-yu
ㅛ-yo
ㅐ-ae
ㅔ-e
ㅟ-wi
ㅝ-wo
ㅚ-oe
ㅘ-wa
ㅢ-wi
ㅖ-ye
ㅗㅒ-wae
ㅒ-yae
ㅞ-we
This might take awhile :S

Awesome Wing and Hat Pictures 18th Century

Types of Hats from 18th Century:- http://www.millinerytechniques.com/types-of-hats-A-to-D.html


http://www.umich.edu/~ece/student_projects/enlightened_elegance/head.htm
Wig Facts
It's no surprise that wigs are still the way to go for men's hair. We here at Enlightened Elegance predict them to stay around for the rest of the century and wanted to make sure that all our readers had the latest on what's in their hair.
What wigs are made of:
~ horsehair and fine wire
~ those made with human hair is very expensive, especially when the full curled type.
Types of wigs (the current trend seems to be that new professions and trades result in a new type of wig!):
~ the bag wig (origin from the French servants, who thrust their hair into a leather bag)
~ the pigtail wig (worn by soldiers, either hanging down or doubled back and tied )
~ the bob wig (the simple wig of the poor, usually known as an undress hairstyle)
~ other types of wigs for men include the rhinoceros, cauliflower (a coachman's wig), comet, Grecian fly, scratch, dalmahoy, snailback, spinach see, and the pigeon's wig (Chalmers 214). (March 20, 1750)

Georgian Century 18th

This time period was a lot of fun to look into because the dresses become so extreme. This to me at points is fashion gone mad. With crazy wide dresses and mad hair styles.This is the time period I accost with France because of its white make up, rouge lips and fake beauty spot and wings for men.

 



















It is a wonderful Youtube video showing all the layers of the dresses and how they went together:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pw-AVf6lFw

Embroidered and woven fabrics were used mostly around this time.Fabrics were becoming much decorative a complex. This allowed for clothes to be made more interesting to look at. Trimmings were very popular for decoration and became more over the top as this period went on. Common trims were embroidered braid, lace frills, fine pleated edges, wide pleats, wide panniers, and frilled hems.

Bodices started to have very square low necklines again to show off the bust. The bottom of the bodices were often slightly dipped or cut off. Sleeves were close fitted and reached to the elbow and had deep turned up cuffs with gathered lace or fabric under the cuff. Ribbon and bow trims often decorated the edges of the sleeves. Women started to wear masculine military jackets with fitted waist coats. The over dress often had a pleated sack back which created a train.
 
Skirts were very gathered and often sat out on hip pads. They were decorated with ruched and pleated silk. They often had at least 3 layers to a skirt. Embroidered and decorated aprons were back in fashion again and were worn over a plain skirt.

Accessories of the time consisted of powered wigs and hair extensions made into ring lets which was made popular because of the French King Louis XIII. Cloaks with full and gathered hoods tied at the bottom of the neck. Small linen caps with frills,  three corned hat with feather trim often worn for hunting. Embroidered yokes on dresses, taffeta bows, straw hats worn over a linen bonnet, artificial flowers on clothes hats alike, shoulder scarf's often tied or held on with a brooch and folding fans.See about the art of the fan here:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pv_PYfBZDHM


Big Changes:-
Not really big changes but key elements of the style became more extenuated and over the top. Skirts tarted to have cages under them and became different shapes (the bigger and wider the better). Ruched details on skirts became very popular to add extra volume. massive feathers and flowers started to be used on hair and in their hats (the more exotic the better), wigs became very high and extreme with padding and ringlets falling loose.  Hats ranged from being very small with tall crowns straw hats decorated to massive over the top hats with tiny crowns and wide brims. Long gloves often in leather started to be worn again and ribbon tied at the neck became very popular.

Movies and TV shows:- The Duchess 2008, Perfume The Story of a Murderer 2006, Pirates of the Caribbean 2003-2007, Plunkett & Macleane 1999, Sleepy Hollow 1999, Marie Antoinette 2006, Doctor Who:- Girl in the Fireplace 2006, Amazing Grace 2006, Interview with the Vampire: The Vampire Chronicles 1994, Jefferson in Paris 1995.


References:- 
http://www.costumersguide.com/18c.shtml
http://romancereaderatheart2.com/georgian/timeline/
17th & 18th Century Fashion Detail (Fashion in Detail) Hart A and North S.
Fashion History: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century by Akiki Fukai 
Patterns of Fashion: 1660-1860: Vol 1 by Janet Arnold
 
Key History Events:- French Revolution. Bonnie Prince Charlie's attends to take over as Monarch. 

Historal Fashion Books to Get

Patterns of Fashion 1-3 by Janet Arnold

The Corset: A Cultural History by Valerie Steele 

Draping Period Costumes: Classical Greek to Victorian by Sharon Sobel 

Creating Historical Clothes: Pattern Cutting from Tudor to Victorian Times by Elizabeth Friendship

Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress by Tiramani Jenny 

18th- 19th Century Corsets

Eighteenth-century corsets were used to raise and shape the breast, tighten the midriff, support the back. This helped to improve posture  with the shoulders down and back. These corsets only slightly narrow the waist. Well-fitting eighteenth-century corsets were quite comfortable, did not restrict breathing.

During the Regency the corset became the main support of the bust because of the empire line dresses it wasn't needed to hold in the waist.

Book:- Support and Seduction: A History of Corsets and Bras by Beatrice Fontanel

The Stuarts 17th Century

This period is so difficult to write about and define fashion wise because the chances happened so quickly around this time. There's also no well known name given to this time that I could find in this research. Since this was when the Stuarts were in power that's why I named it that.

From Charles I 1625-49

Key fabrics of this time was lace. Lace was heavily used for trims and edgings. Satin and lace were also used heavily during this time.

Bodices of this time had risen to almost under the bust, further above the natural waist-line. Square and circle necks were very popular and were often a companied by a linen collar with lace edge and/or deep lace under collars which created a double collar look. Large puff sleeves were very all the rage with often large lace or double cuffs. Under the waistline stiff panels often extended at the front of bodice to accommodate the puffy under skirt.

Heavy satin under skirt were worn. Skirts were gathered and pleated to create extra volume however the folds were counselled under the skirt.

Accessories of the time were lots of lace, bows and rosettes. Folding fans, head dresses high at the back of the head  to cover the hair; with curls coming out the sides. Wide brimmed hats trimmed with feathers. Long strands of pearls and long leather gloves with lace edges were very popular.


After Commonwealth 1660-85
 
Bodices went to the waist again and were heavily boned. Sleeves were made with linen and heavily gathered which made the sleeves fuller and edged with deep lace cuffs. Bodices had deep swoop necks and deep collars. Ribbon started to be used on epaulettes to create a stripped pattern.

Skirts became layered with petticoats/ underskirt showing, they were often decorated. Hooped skirts started to be worn to create more volume. Skirts were gathered at the back and often had small trails.

Hair often had ringlets and ribbons. Bows and brooches were used as main forms of decoration. Lots of folded and flowing fabrics used. Tall-crowned hat trimmed with feathers and fine lace veils were very common head wear.

1685-1702

 Skirts became narrower but with heavy drapping pulled back and decorated. Over-skirts hooked up to the sides often decorated with ribbon. Aprons with lace edging and tiered petticoat skirt were very popular. Striped fabric and lace patterns were also used to make a tier effect.

Small lace looped caps with ribbon were often wear over the top of a cap that enclosed the hair in with lace veils coming down the sides or at the back.

Sleeves were shorted with lots of layers of lace and ribbon ruffles. Low square neck lines with pleated and lace edges were the most common silhouette. The lower sections were often puffy with deep cuffs with long lace attached. This era reminds me of flamenco costumes.

Movies and TV shows of the time:- The Three Musketeers 2011, The Man in the Iron Mask 1998, The Triumph of Love 2001,
The Libertine 2004, Charles II: The Power & the Passion 2003, Catherine the Great 1996 TV Movie, The Scarlet Letter 1995, Stage Beauty 2004, To Kill a King 2003

History:- First Scottish King on the English throne. Gunpowder plot to blow up parliament. English Civil War. Great Fire of London. Glorious revolution. 

Refrences:-
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/10/classifying-17th-century-part-1.html

Panto Day 17 Basic Costume Complete

Date: 22/11/13

Well I have to say i was damn happy with how today went. I completed the bodice with sleeves and sequin trim round the neck, skirt heam and sleeves. I have the fairy shoes now and the pom poms may be here. All I have to do is:-
- Attach the skirt to the bodice
- Make two pairs of tights 
- Put in boning and bind the end of the bodice
- Make the wings
- Add on the fastenings

Tasks started:  Start to think about wings and how to construct them, think about tights.

Tasks completed: Finished bodice and sleeves. Add on all extra sparkle. 

Learned:-

Elizabethan/Renaissance 16th Century

Over this time period the silhouette stays very much the same but some of the key elements become noticeable and pronounced later in the period.

All the fabrics from the Tudor period were used in this period as well with the addiction of small floral details on fabric being very popular. Stripped fabric starts to be used.

Techniques which came popular during this time were ribbon decorations (creating shapes and patterns), latticework trim, quilted fabric with pearls in the centre,  ruffs with wired frames.

Elizabeth: The Golden Age

Bodices fronts get longer and more pointed or shaped peplums. Sleeves much puffer but drawn tighter at the cuffs, double epaulettes were very popular and often decorated with ribbon strips or lace. Small cap sleeves were often worn on sleeveless coats over the dress sometimes worn for hunting or outings. The front bodice panel was decorated with embroidery and lace. Necklines were kept high with big neck ruffles wired and heavily pleated to keep the neck up right and tall, creating the illusion of a longer neck. Heart shaped covers were worn on under the collar and looks like a hood.

Skirts got much bigger on the hips, aided by hip pads. The skirts are made of two layers again with under skirts. 

Hats and headdresses were very popular mostly consisting of small head caps with pearls, men's hats with feathers and small decorative headdresses. For jewellery simple pearl earrings were very common, long strands of pearl ropes made up necklaces and belts. Feather fans were attached a the waist by a belt for keeping them cool. France started to make white make up popular with red lips.

Key differences later:- bigger and more notable peplums on the bodices some times double ones, pleated fabric, skirts off the ground to show fabric or fine leather shoes with heels. Wired lace edge wing collars. Velvet trims, puff long sleeves sectioned off and slashed. feather and pearl hair decoration.

How many layers did they wear?:-
 http://www.elizabethancostume.net/overview.html

Movies and TV shows to watch:- Elizabeth 1998, Elizabeth the Golden Age 2007, Shakespear in Love 1998, Elizabeth I 2005, Casanova 2005, Merchant of Venice 2004, Gunpowder, Treason & Plot 2004, Much Ado About Nothing 1993, Luther 2003, The Borgia 2006

References:-
http://www.historyonthenet.com/Tudors/tudor_costume.htm 
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing.htm

Patterns of Fashion: C1560-1620: 1560-1620 v. 3 by Janet Arnold

Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacocks

Key Events:-  Mary Queen of Scots is executed for an assassination plot. Spanish Armada is destroyed.

14th-16th Century Corset

Corset worn under dress and used to hold up the skirt. The corset flattened and pushed up the bust. Used to create a cone shape with long shaped front.

Panto Day 16 The Final Days

Date: 20-21/11/13

I feel like this costume is starting to come together. I'm so happy about how its turning out. The bodice came together very quickly I think because I'd had practise with the first ones and tacking the pieces before starting to sew it together on the machine. I really think I could finish this tomorrow apart from the fastenings, pom poms and boning which I can do next week. Hopefully I'll do the tights and wings next week.

Tasks started:  Start to think about wings and how to construct them, think about tights.Make up bodice sleeves.

Tasks completed: Finished full skirt apart from fastenings and pom poms. Finished bodice with all panels.

Learned:How to put on binding very quickly. Back everything that would stretch with iron on interfacing. Be careful about smoothing the top skirt down when attaching the bodice.

New Mult Purpose website

Good online refrences as well as places to go to see different costumes. Useful hints, tips and tricks for actually make some of the basic outfit :)
http://www.costumepage.org/

Panto Day 15 Final Fitting

Date: 19/11/13

Well I'm not going to lie today wasn't the best. I'm feeling rubbish because I have a cold again which doesn't help but when you get told you have to start your bodice over it makes me want to cry. The fabrics are stretching out of place too much and aren't lying flat enough. I now have to make the back out of cotton drill, don't bone it until its finished and back all fabric pieces. 2 days work basically down the toilet. At this stage its more than a bit annoying. The tutu and skirt fit great however and so I can just bind the edges, add the pom-poms and attach to the skirt. Done and done. We tried on the walk down costume which only needs some tacking and some big sleeves added in which will only take me an hour if that. However I got told today that I now have to make the wings from scratch. Something I was not expecting and was kinda annoyed that I hadn't been told sooner. I'll have to start work on them next week.

Tasks started:  Start to think about wings and how to construct them, think about tights, finishing of top skirt with binding and attaching to tutu construction. Re-make bodice from scratch.

Tasks completed: final fitting

Learned: Never say something done until its packaged away on the truck. Try to fit things wile doing them, its annoying to take 5 steps back but it saves problems in the long run.

Too True

Late Tudors 14th-15th Century

I was just going to leave the Tudors at that but when I was flicking through books I noticed the change of fashion after Henry VIII death. During Edward VI and The Bloody Mary the fashion changes quite suddenly, same basic shapes of the long waist length bodices and full skirts but it becomes much more conserved.

Fabrics became darker coloured with more deep purples, blues and blacks being worn. Brocade, lace and velvets being the most used fabrics at the time. Small lace detailing was the most common decorative aspect of clothes.

Neck lines on bodices become higher, often covering the neck with lace, linen or high collars. The wing collars became very in fashion. When Mary took the throne the sleeves became slime fitted with small princess puff at the top. Wide ruffles around the cuffs and on stand collars were very popular. Shoulder capes and padded epaulettes (section between the bodice and sleeve join) were also popular. 

Skirts were less gathered than before but just a full. Less material at the waist but just as much at the hem. More like a corn shape. Layered skirts again but not very gathered; skirts often had a plainer fabric covering a decorative under fabric.

Accessories of the time were big veils. Fine linen caps along with French hoods and Atifets become the normal fashion but very plain with only a simple edging such a pearls or lace. Very minimum jewels was worn compared to the earlier years. Men's caps were worn with a plume also seen in Elizabethan.

Fun fact:- They used to have a fur lined muff in cold weather on a chain for if there hands got cold.  

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila  
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion by Anna Reynolds

I think this change happened because of Mary's very strong Catholic beliefs. That woman should cover their bodies as much as possible as a sign of purity and chastity.

Early Tudor 14th-15th Century

I find that this was one of the points in history were fashion became more of a focus point especial in the royal courts around the world. Both men and women were dedicated to out doing each other on the latest trends. The more up to date your clothes were the wealthier a position you were. I could write essays on each item alone so I've tried to keep it prefer but showed links and books for more details.

For women one of there key trends were head dresses. For balls and events smaller more delicate pieces might be worn but for normal days the most common pieces were the French hood and the English hood.

French Hoods were circular and made popular when Anne Boleyn was Queen because of her spending time the French court. The front border fitting close round the head, was curved forward on either side to end over the ears. Only revealing the front of the hair. The back of the crown was raised into a horseshoe-shaped curve over the head. A veil was attached at the back to cover the hair. Decorations varied but the basic look stayed the same.

English/Gable Hoods were so-called because its pointed shape resembles the gable of a house. The shape resembles a pentagon with a veil to cover the hair at the back. The hood sits further forwards than the French hood so as it cover all hair.

Atifets were still very popular during this period (see Mediaeval for details). Coifs which are linen caps were worn under heavy head dresses.

Fabrics of the time became more decorative and lavish. New techniques like pleats and scalloping became used to decorate fabrics with gather becoming used more and more. Furs, wool and linen were still widely used for winter and mostly under garments. Damask, silk and velvet became more used in high sociality. People started to use fabrics to contacts and show off layers of there garments. People who could make dresses and embroider were very sot after for kings and queens. Dies for the fabric were all organic.

Bodices at this time went to the waist and had a low squared neckline. The corsets of this time helped to create a full bust but a nipped in corn shape toward the waist. Bodices were decorated with pearls, religious pendants, chains, broaches, thin or lace fabric around the edges. Sleeves were very large and often edged with lace often with deep cuffs. I often thought it was a challenge set to who could fit the most fabric in one sleeve with these clothes. There would be at least 4 layers for the top section including smock, corset, tie on sleeves and top of the dress.

Skirts had multi-table layers including petticoat, smock,bum roll and at least 2 or 3 layers for the skirt and dress itself. 

For more details see these links:-
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/tudor-clothes/

http://www.tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/renaissance_costume_glossary_2.shtml





















Fun fact:- Tudor sleeves were filled with horse hair to help with padding them out. Pomander case were carried on chains to help the wearer smell nice and "ward off illnesses". For more details view

http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/pomanders/

Movies/ TV shows with good references:- The Tudors 2007-2010, Lady Jane 1995, The Other Boleyn Girl 2008, The Man in the Iron Mask 1986, The Girl with a Pearl Earring 2003,Blackadder Part II - 1985, Orlando 1992, Prince and the Pauper was said to be set during this time.

Key History Events:- King Henry VIII becomes the head of the Church of England. The Black Plague arrives in London. The War of the Roses took place.

References:-
http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_thetudors.shtml
http://www.thetudorswiki.com/page/HOODS+%26+Headdresses++on+The+Tudors (amazing for headdress references)
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion by Anna Reynolds