Friday, 15 November 2013

Early Tudor 14th-15th Century

I find that this was one of the points in history were fashion became more of a focus point especial in the royal courts around the world. Both men and women were dedicated to out doing each other on the latest trends. The more up to date your clothes were the wealthier a position you were. I could write essays on each item alone so I've tried to keep it prefer but showed links and books for more details.

For women one of there key trends were head dresses. For balls and events smaller more delicate pieces might be worn but for normal days the most common pieces were the French hood and the English hood.

French Hoods were circular and made popular when Anne Boleyn was Queen because of her spending time the French court. The front border fitting close round the head, was curved forward on either side to end over the ears. Only revealing the front of the hair. The back of the crown was raised into a horseshoe-shaped curve over the head. A veil was attached at the back to cover the hair. Decorations varied but the basic look stayed the same.

English/Gable Hoods were so-called because its pointed shape resembles the gable of a house. The shape resembles a pentagon with a veil to cover the hair at the back. The hood sits further forwards than the French hood so as it cover all hair.

Atifets were still very popular during this period (see Mediaeval for details). Coifs which are linen caps were worn under heavy head dresses.

Fabrics of the time became more decorative and lavish. New techniques like pleats and scalloping became used to decorate fabrics with gather becoming used more and more. Furs, wool and linen were still widely used for winter and mostly under garments. Damask, silk and velvet became more used in high sociality. People started to use fabrics to contacts and show off layers of there garments. People who could make dresses and embroider were very sot after for kings and queens. Dies for the fabric were all organic.

Bodices at this time went to the waist and had a low squared neckline. The corsets of this time helped to create a full bust but a nipped in corn shape toward the waist. Bodices were decorated with pearls, religious pendants, chains, broaches, thin or lace fabric around the edges. Sleeves were very large and often edged with lace often with deep cuffs. I often thought it was a challenge set to who could fit the most fabric in one sleeve with these clothes. There would be at least 4 layers for the top section including smock, corset, tie on sleeves and top of the dress.

Skirts had multi-table layers including petticoat, smock,bum roll and at least 2 or 3 layers for the skirt and dress itself. 

For more details see these links:-
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/tudor-clothes/

http://www.tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/renaissance_costume_glossary_2.shtml





















Fun fact:- Tudor sleeves were filled with horse hair to help with padding them out. Pomander case were carried on chains to help the wearer smell nice and "ward off illnesses". For more details view

http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/pomanders/

Movies/ TV shows with good references:- The Tudors 2007-2010, Lady Jane 1995, The Other Boleyn Girl 2008, The Man in the Iron Mask 1986, The Girl with a Pearl Earring 2003,Blackadder Part II - 1985, Orlando 1992, Prince and the Pauper was said to be set during this time.

Key History Events:- King Henry VIII becomes the head of the Church of England. The Black Plague arrives in London. The War of the Roses took place.

References:-
http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_thetudors.shtml

Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion


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