Sunday, 24 November 2013

The Stuarts 17th Century

This period is so difficult to write about and define fashion wise because the chances happened so quickly around this time. There's also no well known name given to this time that I could find in this research. Since this was when the Stuarts were in power that's why I named it that.


From Charles I 1625-49

Key fabrics of this time was lace. Lace was heavily used for trims and edgings. Satin and lace were also used heavily during this time.

Bodices of this time had risen to almost under the bust, further above the natural waist-line. Square and circle necks were very popular and were often a companied by a linen collar with lace edge and/or deep lace under collars which created a double collar look. Large puff sleeves were very all the rage with often large lace or double cuffs. Under the waistline stiff panels often extended at the front of bodice to accommodate the puffy under skirt.

Heavy satin under skirt were worn. Skirts were gathered and pleated to create extra volume however the folds were counselled under the skirt.

Accessories of the time were lots of lace, bows and rosettes. Folding fans, head dresses high at the back of the head  to cover the hair; with curls coming out the sides. Wide brimmed hats trimmed with feathers. Long strands of pearls and long leather gloves with lace edges were very popular.


After Commonwealth 1660-85
 
Bodices went to the waist again and were heavily boned. Sleeves were made with linen and heavily gathered which made the sleeves fuller and edged with deep lace cuffs. Bodices had deep swoop necks and deep collars. Ribbon started to be used on epaulettes to create a stripped pattern.

Skirts became layered with petticoats/ underskirt showing, they were often decorated. Hooped skirts started to be worn to create more volume. Skirts were gathered at the back and often had small trails.

Hair often had ringlets and ribbons. Bows and brooches were used as main forms of decoration. Lots of folded and flowing fabrics used. Tall-crowned hat trimmed with feathers and fine lace veils were very common head wear.

1685-1702

 Skirts became narrower but with heavy drapping pulled back and decorated. Over-skirts hooked up to the sides often decorated with ribbon. Aprons with lace edging and tiered petticoat skirt were very popular. Striped fabric and lace patterns were also used to make a tier effect.

Small lace looped caps with ribbon were often wear over the top of a cap that enclosed the hair in with lace veils coming down the sides or at the back.

Sleeves were shorted with lots of layers of lace and ribbon ruffles. Low square neck lines with pleated and lace edges were the most common silhouette. The lower sections were often puffy with deep cuffs with long lace attached. This era reminds me of flamenco costumes.

Movies and TV shows of the time:- The Three Musketeers 2011, The Man in the Iron Mask 1998, The Triumph of Love 2001,
The Libertine 2004, Charles II: The Power & the Passion 2003, Catherine the Great 1996 TV Movie, The Scarlet Letter 1995, Stage Beauty 2004, To Kill a King 2003


History:- First Scottish King on the English throne. Gunpowder plot to blow up parliament. English Civil War. Great Fire of London. Glorious revolution. 

Refrences:-
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2011/10/classifying-17th-century-part-1.html

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