The Stuarts 17th Century

From Charles I 1625-49
Fabrics and Techniques
Only rich people could afford the expensive fabrics that were required, such as silk brocade and edgings of hand-made lace (collars, garters, cuffs, glove edges). Braid or embroidered trim were used heavily in all manner of ways such as coat edges and pocket decoration. Another fabrics used during this time are linen, cotton, velvet, silk, rusett/straights, say, twill, fustians, leather and tight weave frieze to stiffen garments of clothing. The favourite colours of the Queen of time (Henrietta Maria of France) were orange, blue, grey, peach, yellow and olive green, and these were often adopted by her courtiers.
Different weaves started to be used such as Plain or tabby weave, Twill weave, Satin weave, Velvet weave, Damask weave and Brocade weave. Please look at this artificial for more details:- http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/exhibitions/in-fine-style-the-art-of-tudor-and-stuart-fashion/fabrics

Shirts
Instead of ruffs, there were wire-ringed collars and later wide flat collars.The long sleeves gave way to  fuller and looser sleeves which gathered at the wrist or forearm. Light and bright colours and were often quilted or embroidered to decorated them. The over all shape was still very similar to the Tudors shirts before them. Men wore shirts under doublets or waistcoats and were see through gaps in the clothing. Shirts were made of linen or cotton and were heavily gathered. Large deep lace cuffs were sometimes doubled and see from underneath the sleeve. The sleeve gathered were often drawn together with a ribbon or cord.

 
Coats/Doublets

The doublets were pointed in front but the waistlines started to rise and much later in the centenary this seam disappeared but by the middle of the century they were looser and were often left open in front to show the shirt worn underneath to become more of a coat. Getting rid of the boning and strong structure seen in the Tudor era. The look of this era was much more floaty and non restrictive. Soldiers of the period wore jerkins, which were sleeveless close fitting jacket/waistcoat. Peacode padding was replaced by belly plates which were two triangular pieces of extra stiffening which formed a lozenge centre front. As doublets got shorter and waist tabs on them became longer and wider to create extended panels. Sleeves had deep long cuts so that shirts were visible. Coats and jacket had large linen square collar with deep lace edges such as cuffs. While travelling men would often wear shoulder capes which sat on one should so as to allow for horse ridding and sometimes fighting. Sashes were  worn over the top of the shirt and waist coats to draw them in at the waist.

                                                                 From V&A collection
Breeches and Stockings
Silk stockings were worn tight and came to just above the knee. They were held in place by means of leather garters, bows or tied garters with fringed ends worn under the breeches. Breeches sometimes had buttoned at the side both for practical use or decorative details. It was one of the first times that details like this were used for the sole purpose of decoration not for practical use. Beeches of this time were gathered held at the knee. Breeches which were straight-cut started to to be worn without garters at the knee Some people say this was the start of the development of Regancy breeches.

Accessories

Most of the men wore beards that were pointed and a large moustache. Men wore tall-crowned hats with wide brims decorated with plumes when outdoors and at court. They wore their hair at collar length and very fashionable men wore a long strand of hair over one shoulder. This strand was called a lovelock.  Long walking stick with decorative knobs started to be carried by men along with gauntlets used for riding and duelling which became popular from France. 

Shoes
Leather shoes with small, stacked heels, decorated with ties, rosettes or bows. Soft leather boots with turn-down cuffs worn with spurs. Shoes decorated with pattern of punched holes.

Make up
Men and women of the court both wore make-up. This had happened in Elizabethan times too, but now make-up was used more often. It was fashionable to have a very pale complexion. This demonstrated that a person was rich enough not to have to work outside in the fields. To make quite sure that skin remained pale, people sometimes wore masks when outdoors. Powders and creams could also help achieve pallor. A pale complexion was achieved by making a cream from powdered white chalk or white lead, mixed with white of egg and vinegar. This made a smooth shiny finish and people had to be careful not to laugh or the new ‘skin’ would crack.The use of these powders and ointments, especially ones containing lead and mercury, was very bad for the skin, and after a while resulted in scars and blemishes. To hide these it became the fashion for both men and women to wear patches on the face. These were cut into a huge variety of shapes and patterns, including stars, diamonds, crescent moons.

After Commonwealth 1660-85
This was the beginning of men wearing the three piece suit. This consisted of a coat, a waistcoat and breeches, which were close fitted to the knee.

Fabrics and Details
Broad welt side pockets with deep pocket bags started to be used on jackets and waistcoats. Button started to be used to decorate them in a military fashion often with parallel lines in embroidery or cord. Shoes, coats, hats and wigs started to be covered stiff narrow bows. Fine pleated edges started to be used on jacket cuffs and edges of hats. 

Shirt
Shirts were kept the same.

Jacket and Waistcoat 
Sleeve lines started to shorten to reveal more shirt as cuffs became more exadurated and wider. Jacket and waistcoat lines dropped further and started to flare out with pleating like a a skirt with front button fastening. Circular travelling cape. Jackets split at centre back and side seams with decorative buttons and buttonholes to allow for jacket movement and access to swords which men were allowed to carry.

Breeches
Breeches crept up again and became full gathered pumpkin like again like from the Tudor period, there edges were decorated with ribbon petticoats. Later in that period breeches started to become more fitted and like the breeches from before and made of velvet.

Accessories
Long curled/ringlets hair wigs (periwig). Wide brimmed hats with low crowns with large feathers, brooches, fine lace cravats.Bicorns started to be worn.

Shoes
Shoes with square toes and large bows with large tongues made of soft leather.


Reference:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock 
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion by Anna Reynolds
The First Georgians: Art & Monarchy 1714-1760 by Desmond Shawe-Taylor and Wolf Burchard
17th & 18th Century Fashion Detail (Fashion in Detail) by Hart A. and North S.
http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1660-1685-king-charles-ii-stuarts-restoration.htm
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2010/02/brief-evolution-of-mens-18th-century.html
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Stuart_Fashion.htm
http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century
http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Tudor-Stuart-Fashion/
http://www.wikihow.com/Learn-About-the-English-Stuart-Period-%2817th-Century%29