Wednesday 19 March 2014

How to Dress a Dancer Notes

How to Dress Dancers by Mary Kent Harrison.
I will be getting this book because it has lots of useful information and tips about dressing physical preformers in general plus tutus.
Key Notes:-
-Leotards  
~Make waist measurements wider than normal in the front and back so as it fit better when darted.
~Shape front into groin crease and up to the hip at the side but go lower at the back.
~Centre back as the opening, close with hook and bars. Shape and add to as required for design.
~For male versions, fasten at shoulders if fabric has no give. No centre back pattern.

-Bodices
~Use basic bodice measurements (see pattern cutting book).
~Double layers can be used to add to the design such as cut aways such as for tradition bodices.
~Lacing on corsage. Pin and tack corners under the braid. Machine down braid, over lacing andd all will be secured.
~Use boning for structual support.
~Add draping etc onto basic bodice block. 
~ Look up National Costume Bodices for ideas.

~The underarm seams are as high as possible under the arms. Very little head of the sleeve. Check sleeves are ok with movement using first and second positions.

-Skirts
~Make a fitting belt of white petersham 1 and 1/2 wide, close with two hook and eyes. Helps to see shape of skirt on the stand and to hold structure on the person.
~Cut in four pieces for empire line.
~When doing layered skirt cut on stand.

-Petticoat
~Cut from cotton or nylon for a circular skirt.
~Don't attach to petersham band until frills and laces are added.
~Mark on the required number of frills for the circle shirt. Cute net to the required lengths and arrange on shirt, gathered as required. Make sure all layers reach the end of the circle shirt. 
 
-Decorations
~Add decorations to the garment before attaching seams together.
~Always buy extra to make sure it covers the garment without being tight.
 
-Tutus 
~Make sure the tutu lies parallel to the floor.
~Always cut bodice and basque in cotton.
~Bodice cut in 8 pieces, boned.
~(See book for full details, very clear explication of how to put a tutu together. Also has an explication of romantic tutus as well.)
~Romantic tutus have 4 net layers.

Edwardian Corset Draft 1

Tuesday 18 March 2014

Edwardian Corset

Since we finished the hat project we moved onto corsets. I choice to do a Edwardian corset as I'd never tried to make one of those styles before. I've done 18th Century and Victorian. I love how different corsets create different shapes with the body.



















I picked a beautiful pattern which is called the straight front Edwardian corset. I want to try a later Elizabethan corset and a French corset .
I've enjoyed trying out the techniques that Christine uses when making corsets like how she does the boning, doubling it up. I want a simple corset with a lace top like in the picture above. Means I can wear it outside of my clothes or under clothes.

I printed off  the paper for Hamelet today. I'm disappointed we missed the last meeting as we were on Legally Blonde.I would have prioritised Hamelet as first. I would have liked to have seem how Gillian resolved the problems of costume numbers and makes though from what I can tell from what other people said I would have dealt with it differently.

Friday 7 March 2014

Hat Making Part 3

Spent the day hand sewing the head band and petershum edge onto the hat. It was very relaxing. Enjoyed sitting there hand sewing for the day.

Finished Hat

I really loved the process of making the hat. This will not be the last hat I make. I think if everything went wrong with costumes I'd love to set up my own hat shop or something. I love how you can do whatever you want and decorate it as much as you like. I love how delicate the details can be but it can spoil you for choice.

Different Shapes of Corsets

http://www.ebay.com/gds/Top-8-Corsets-for-Women-/10000000177677844/g.html