Showing posts with label Tudors. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tudors. Show all posts

Wednesday, 10 December 2014

Tudor Clothing 14th-15th Centuary

Tudors were not allowed to wear whatever they liked due to the Tudor Sumptuary Laws or Statutes of Apparel. Colours, fashion styles and materials were dictated by class and rank. The higher the rank the more choice of materials, styles and colours that could be worn and the more distinct the fashion. The rank and position of Tudor men and women would be immediately recognised by the fashion of their clothes together with the colour, style and material of their clothing.

The key thing about these fashions were there were big and over the top to show of the wealth of the individual. Rank and power were everything in there sociality.

Layers list:-
  • Doublet which were boned (the first men's corset)
  • Separate sleeves
  • Breeches
  • Belt
  • Cloak
  • Shoes
  • Hat
  • Shirt
  • Stockings or hose
  • Codpiece:- a covering flap or pouch that attaches to the front of the crotch of men's trousers and usually accentuates the genital area. It was held closed by string ties, buttons, or other methods.

Trousers consisted of breeches which were often gathered or fitted to the thigh. Breeches often had large slashes in them to expose another fabric underneath or the fabric was inserted into the gaps permanently. This trousers shape is often associated with traditional Shakespearian theatre.

Shoes had squared off toes made of either velvet, silk or fine leather. Shoes were often embroidered or with slash decoration.
Jackets had large puffy and padded sleeves; sometimes so large they were attached separately from the shirt. Fur cuffs were often seen on jackets and often carried on into linings or even collars during winter times. Heavily pleated high yoke jackets were very common and varied in length depending on season. Sometimes they were sleeveless to show off the doublet or shirt sleeves if they had a beautiful detail. Jackets were often made of wool, velvet, silk or Danmask. Sleeves were often fitted or gathered at the cuff and sometimes finished with a frill or other embellishment like fur or embroidery. Their coats were cut  with wide shoulders and hidden extra fabric to create a square shape.
Simar  This is a robe for men. The neck part is somewhat on a double breasted line, with no collar. The robe was worn either unguided or confined at the waist by a narrow silk scarf, knotted with one loop and two ends. They had no sleeves but slits to allow for the wearer to use there hands
Jerkin A short velvet or leather jacket similar in shape to a doublet mostly without sleeveless. Sometimes a cap sleeve is added for extra detail. From the 1530s, a narrower silhouette became popular under Spanish influence. Collars were higher and tighter. Shoulders lost their padding and developed a slight slope. Jerkins closed to the neck.
Shirts and Doublets  They wore short doublets over their hose so that they protruded more. Shirts were tied at the neck with high collars which were often ruffled or gathered. The bodices of the shirt were loose fitted often gathered or pleated for extra fabric. Shirts had a slit up both sides of them to the hip to allow for them to be tucked into the breeches without restricting movement. They were often seen through outer garments for detail some sometimes had lace or embellished cuffs. They were made of light cotton or wool depending on the time of year.
Accessories Garters were tied above the knees often made up of ribbon some other detail.
Soft fabric hats with wide or turned up brims were very popular and were often decorated with cord, feathers and brooches.

Chain of Offices were often worn if the person had a position of power. Gloves were made of leather or velvet with embroidered gauntlets. Slash decorations were used on all garments. Hose were made of wool or silk and often were right up the full leg. Button details and heavy embroidery were heavily used to show off there wealth.























page 36-37

The changes in the male silhouette outside of Italy during the 16th century can be summed up under three broad categories:
  • from 1500 to 1520, the transition was made from late Gothic to Renaissance styles.
  • from 1520 to 1550, costume was dominated by German fashion with its full over-robe, emphasizing horizontal lines. Slashing and panes - strips of fabric caught with ornamental clasps - allowed the shirt to show through. The codpiece developed into a prominent feature.
  • from 1550 to 1600, shoulder width decreased, and a new garment, the separate breech or trunk hose, emerged. This period is dominated by Spanish influences.

During the short rains of Edward VI and Mary all these details became toned down and refined. The doublet shape became more noticeable changing from the square shape to mirroring the triangle shape of the women. It was believed that some men started to wear stays in this time period to help with the silhouette.





















page 40 - 43

Beautiful reprisals for 16th Centenary clothing:-
http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/c16th.htm

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
http://www.slideshare.net/parul_prajapati/16th-century-costumes-northern-renaissance
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Tudor_Fashion.htm
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/16th_Century_Fashion
http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-16th-Century/Sixteenth-Century-Clothing.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion
http://www.lepg.org/men.htm
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-fashion.htm
http://www.thetudorswiki.com/page/The+Tudors+Costumes+%3A+Men%27s+Dress

Monday, 24 November 2014

Tudors Construction Techinques

I decided to start this research at the Tudor ere as it was the first time that there was a noticeable different between the class and between formal and day wear. Different methods were being used and more fabrics were being used. Before Tudors men more oubliettes, breeches or hoses, tunics, cloaks and leather shoes. For formal occasions they would embellish there outfits to an extent with better fabrics and belts but not to the extent the Tudors went.
Garment Details:-

Fabrics used and how they were used:-


Techniques and Methods used:-
  • The stitches are all done by hand.
  • Basting is often used to keep layers together by hands. Stitches are removed once the garment is finished.
  • Binding and facing this is for finishing edges. Binding a strip of fabric encloses the raw edges and is visible from the outside of the garment. A facing is applied to the inside of the garment and is not visible on the right side.
  • Whipping This is used on bulky areas of garments. The fabric is whipped together to hold them.
  • Working with leather and fur:- thinner layers of leather can be sewn like other fabrics but thicker ones need special treatment. seam allowances are not added and edges are joined with a but stitch. A leather-working tool with a flat spike called an awl is used to make the holes for the stitches.two needles are threaded with waxed linen thread and the stitches are worked in tandem. The tension is pulled up evenly as the stitches progress. fur lining and facings had there edges finished before being inserted into the fabric. The edges were whipped together. Use cotton tape or bias binding for curved edges on the edge to keep strengthened.
  • Grading is used where a number of layers of fabric have been sewn together. Bulk is minimized by trimming each of the layers down by slightly different amounts.
  • Matching buttons to complete a garment are made by hand. Often using the same or complementing fabric. You can also make thread buttons.
  • Boning started to be used for corsets for both men and women.
  • Clothes started to be slashed and quilted to give garments texture.

  • Buttonholes are made by marking the area with a small box of tight stitches, cut the box and whip stitch the edge so it doesn't fray. Eyelets are made forcing forcing a knitting needle through the fabric without damaging the fibres. The edge of the eyelet is sewn tightly then bound like the button hole.
  • Hooks and eyes they sew on to each side of the fastening. Alternate hooks and eyes sewn to the inside edge of a garment. So it goes hook, eyes and hook and the alternative on the other side to stop the garment from coming undone.
  • Different types of gathering are used like knife pleats, box pleats and cartridge pleats. All of them used for different things and different looks to a garment.
Fun fact:- Boys wore skirts instead of breeches right up until they were 7 years old.

References:-
The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/16th_Century_Fashion
http://www.renaissancetailor.com/demos_handtech.htm