Victorian fashion is one of the most complicated to write about as it went over a great many years and in that time the silhouettes changed at least 3 to 4 times to see a wonderful breakdown see:- http://trulyvictorian.com/history.html. The clothing is all based around the S line or hourglass shape which was created by the corsets. This time period has some of my favourite style details.Beginning:-
During this time fabrics were starting to become much more available because of cotton production and larger imports. Spotted muslin, taffeta and silk were commonly used for evening or fancy occasions. Woven fabric fabrics were widely available. Lace, ribbons and fringing were widely used as decoration.
Draped silk, braid trim, rushing, bias binding were used to embellish bodices and skirts with lots of fabric edges decorated.
Bodice waist lines had fallen again; to help to start to give this S-line silhouette. Off the shoulder bodices were very common for evening wear to help to show off the collar bone which was seen as being very attractive. Velvet inset panels were commonly used around the neck to cover the bust often added to old dresses with a square neckline. Over sized collars,frilled over sleeves, tight cuffs,short puff sleeves, peplums, shaped cuff sleeves,large sleeve decorations, circular cuffs were all very popular during this time period.
For the skirts they went giant again with the aid of hoop skirts/ crinoline cages, large bum rolls and petticoats. This helped to relieve some of the weight from the lower back. Tiered skirt and double frills at the hem were exceedingly popular for all times of day.
Common accessories of the time included ring letting the hair with bows and ribbons to hold them in place, artificial flowers, small bonnets, fitted coats to help to show off the tiny waist, decorative braid/ frog fastenings, shawls, large brooches, drape earrings, small bowler hats and capes.
Middle:-
Striped and patterned fabrics were heavily used during this time. Man made dies were starting to be used thanks to industry so navy and indigo coloured fabrics were very common place. Bias cut fabrics started to be used because it was found they draped better than weft cut fabric.
Bodices sleeves started to puff out again, waist position rose a bit so that bodices would sit on the natural waist and not on the hip. Large cuffs and small stand collar were widely used.
Skirts had paded and frilled petticoats, top skirts pulled back by swags for more volume and to create a train. This created a very flat front and sides skirt with everything pulled to the back. Under skirts were embroidered as they were seem, extra fabric was added to the back for more draping. Apron fronts with decorated edges often covered the front of dresses and hems often had large pleated attached.
Hair net with beads attached started to be worn to hold the hair back. Short gloves and straw hats with ribbons and flowers were worn every day when travelling.
Brocade fabric came back into fashion and pipping decorations started to be seen very often.
Bodice shoulder points were set further back to encourage you to sit with a proper posture. Bodices extended again so that they sat over the hips with an extra back panel used to make the jackets a closer fit. Seams were boned to help retain the structure and to aid corsets with holding the wearer in. Neck lines were high during the day and often tucked or pleated were as for evenings they neck-lines were off the shoulder or scoop necked.
Skirts unlike the bottoms were very full with long trains, narrow hems,gathered bustles. Lots of ruffles, lace, gathers and rushing to create volume. This all helped to show off the tiny waists.
Felt hat with feathers in a small bowler hat fashion were often worn on day outings. Another hat that was very popular was a narrow curved brims hat which was often decorated with silk flowers. Women started to carry small fabric bags. Pearl necklace, earrings and fancy broochs were often worn mostly commonly about the throat to hold up a scarf or tucked neck line. Narrow cut leather boots with toe caps were all the range.
Movies and TV:- The Young Victoria 2009, Dracula 1992, As You Like It 2006, The Age of Innocence 1993, Cold Mountain 2003, Far and Away 1992, The Illusionist 2006, The Prestige 2006, The Legend of Zoro 2005, The Portrait of a Lady 1996, Sweeney Todd 2007, The Phantom of the Opera 2004, Moulin Rouge 2001, Interview with the Vampire 1994, Stardust 2007, Anna Karenina 2012, Jane Eyre 2011, Tipping the Velvet (book), Victoria and Albert 2001, The Beaux' Stratagem (play), North and South 2004, Kate and Leopld 2001, Great Expectations 2012, Secret Garden 1993, Dorian Gray 2009, Sherlock Holmes 2009-2011, League of Extraordinary Gentlemen 2003, Ripper Street 2012-2013, The Raven 2012, Cranford 2007, Lark Rise Candleford 2008,
History Events:- Napoleonic wars. The First Railway. First Education Act, Industrial revolution, Victoria became the longest raining monarch.
References:-
Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold
http://thats-not-victorian.tumblr.com/post/34824134342/womens-fashion-timeline-19th-and-early-20thGreat reference for outfit break down and how the fashions changed:- http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/fashion.html
Amazing pictures and references:- http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/v/victorian-fashion/
For fun:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR6q5m258Mk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6IPjwR1j5w
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