Showing posts with label Victorian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Victorian. Show all posts
Tuesday, 22 March 2016
Thursday, 8 October 2015
Saturday, 31 January 2015
Victorian 19th Centuary
Early:-
Fabric and details
Lots of the fabrics from the Regency stuck around during this time because industry and import from other countries were heavily used in this time; silks, tweed, cottons, linens, velvet, demask, woollen blends, muslin, tafftas etc. The same kinds of print were used however in much more fregent such as small check in small, bold print fabric and stripped fabric which is used as a design detail for contrast colour fabric collar, revers, cuffs and now linings as well. The details used on most garments were very sutle until the other eras before them, less was more in this time. Different types of pockets became the detail piece of this period; bound pockets, slanted flap pockets,breast pocket with button and flap pocket. Again the decorative braid was in and used on hats but also to make a strip down the side of trousers. Buttons again were also used large buttons and button trim on jackets such as at the back or on the cuff.
Shirt
Shirts were made of linen and were often coloured either white, grey or black.
One of the key items worn by men were cravat tied in different ways with a turn-down starched wing collar. Shirts started to have pleats inserted into the button stands and removable stiff fronts (bibs) started to be worn for formal occasions with high stand collars to be worn with bow ties. Bibs were reversible to allow a man to hide any unsightly stains which
allowed them to keep a neat appearance without requiring the shirt to be laundered.Victorian shirts
were cut much more fully than modern shirts but the general shape of modern shirts was starting to show for example things like button cuffs, wing collars (either attachable or detachable), fitted shoulders and no gathered sleeves.
Jacket
All jackets in this era had a centre back seam and one other curved seam into the arm holes which helped to shape the waistline in. Sleeves were close fitted with often a cuff and a gathered sleeve head.This centenary was heavily dominated by the frock coat which was a man’s coat with full skirt both front and back that reached just above the knee. It was common for both day and evening wear through the 1880’s, making it the most versatile coat of the Victorian wardrobe. Often these coats would have a box pleat or normal pleat at the back to help with fullness in the back of the jacket. Tailcoats which were coats similar to the George high front jacket which swooped back to a vent at the back as seen in the picture bellow in the middle. This was the most popular jacket worn for parties and formal events. Like today, the styling included single and double breasted as well as straight and pointed fronts.
Please note that with straight cut coats,
gentlemen often wore vests that were cut longer, allowing the bottom of
the vest to show beneath the coat.
In the 1870’s the sack suit briefly grew in popularity. The suit was cut in a large box like shape and no middle seam, which allowed the suit to hang loosely on the body. This jacket was quickly replaced in 1880 to became more fitted and a middle seam directly above the coat pockets, there edges started to round off instead of being angled.
Another jacket which grow in popularity and stayed for many years was the smoking jackets. They are short, made of velvet or silk, and feature a shawl collar and turned up cuffs. They fasten with toggle buttons. The jackets were quilted and, in a nod to their dressing-gown origins, can be fastened with rope ties. The jacket looked more like a jacket and less like a silk bathrobe however with its tight-fitting sleeves, velvet collar and buttons.
Waistcoat
Waistcoats started to cut on the bias and began to have an array of collar types as should in the picture. For formal wear cummerbunds were introduced to stop the gap appearing between the trousers waistband and the shirt. Cummerbunds are a strip of wide fabric often pleated t provide shape which are clasped at the back with a hook and bar. This also helped to nip in the waist which was one of the main aspects of men's fashion at the time. Waistcoats had often a great deal of embroidered or were made of damask fabric for contract with the outer jacket. Waistcoats during this time were either single or double breasted depending on the occasion and time of dress. Formal wear waistcoats started to have a pointed front to draw the attention of the eye in and down thus making the wearer appear slimmer. Pockets started to appear on waistcoats as a practical aspect and a decorative, flap pockets being the most popular for this. The more pockets on the waist coats outside the more casual the occasion you were going to. For example waist coats with two longer lockets were often used as evening or formal wear whereas waistcoats with three or four were for day to day wear or work.
Trousers
The biggest difference between the trousers of today and those of the 1800’s is the waistline. Men wore their pants higher with the top of the trouser or just below the belly button.
Men wore trousers that were either stripes or checks which they often paired with different jackets which was sometime patterned also. Men did not wear their trousers pressed with a crease, but rather with a flat front. Lengths of trousers did vary slightly over the decades, from the shortest cut that caused the trousers to hang completely straight to the longest, in which the trouser hung to the bottom of the heel of the boot and in some cases were coat under neither, they were all however slim fitted. Loads of the trousers at this time refactored a decorative strip down the side of the leg in either fabric, embroidery or braid. To help shape these high-waisted trousers tucks or pleats were introduced at the waist to give more shape. Another shape that was introduced to trousers was the fly-front fastening which to start with used buttons to seal the opening. Belts weren’t used however suspenders or braces of leather or canvas were commonly used to hold up the trousers over the shoulders.
Hat
The two most common types of hat worn during this time were top hat which varied in high depending of the decade and occasion. The brim of the top hat also varied sometimes curling up at the edges were as others remained flat. Tall top hats were worn for formal occasions also with tail coat, white bow tie and waistcoat. Another hat that started to appear later in this era was the bowler hat sometimes called The Derby.
Shoes
Shoes of this time were now all made in soft leather or sued. They were often boots with flat heels often with a toe caps detail at the front or a flat pump shoe also made of leather which was worn for formal dress.
Accessories
Accessories of this time included things such as walking sticks, leather gloves (later becoming driving gloves), fur collars sitting of a jacket during winter , shoulder cape for evenings, silk hankie in a pocket.
Late:-
Jacket/Waistcoat
The general shape of waistcoats didn't alter however some of there features changed over the decade. Flap pockets were replaced by patch pockets on the more casual waistcoats. The backs of the waist coats became more fitted thanks to curved seams on the back wile falling straighter at the front. White waistcoats however were still widely worn for evening events.
The three-piece lounge suit grew in popularity and regularly worn from the 1890s onwards. Frock coats were still worn, but generally by older or more conservative men. Straps started to be worn on jackets much as at the cuffs and the top of vents similar to the trench coats of today, there were often paired with buttons. Side pleats at the backs of jackets started to turn into centre back vents so that the jacket wouldn't become creased when men sat down. Long coat of heavy wool tweed became popular and astrakhan collars with wool trim became widely worn as seen in the picture. Shorter jackets started to come into fashion with darts to pull in at the waists paired with wide rounded roll collars and revers.
Hat
Shallow bowler hats like Porkpie Hats were widely worn by working class to work. Deer-stalker hat started to be worn in the country side or during traveling. On the streets straw boater and felt trilby started to make an appearance.
Shoes
Felt spats started to be worn over boots to protect them from dirt as keeping shoes clean wasn't easy. Leather boots with dark suede toe-caps or shiny when worn for formal wear were worn more frequently. The classic work shoe of today started to a peer with its pointed toe and lace up front.
Accessories
Cravats started to be knotted like the ties of todays often with a tie pin. Pocket watches were worn attached at the button of the waistcoat and into the pocket of the coat or waistcoat as time was very important now because of working and industry. Walking cane with silver knob were used for the higher class members of sociality.
References:
Fashion in Detail: 1700 - 2000 by Claire Wilcox
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits
http://www.costumegallery.com/1882/Etiquette/
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Smoking_Jacket_for_Men
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Victorian_Fashion.htm
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/victorian-clothing-guide.php
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/0-9/reading-list-19th-century-fashion/
Amazing attractions for the Victorian era:- http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/g/great-exhibition/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/i/industrial-revolution/
Fabric and details
Lots of the fabrics from the Regency stuck around during this time because industry and import from other countries were heavily used in this time; silks, tweed, cottons, linens, velvet, demask, woollen blends, muslin, tafftas etc. The same kinds of print were used however in much more fregent such as small check in small, bold print fabric and stripped fabric which is used as a design detail for contrast colour fabric collar, revers, cuffs and now linings as well. The details used on most garments were very sutle until the other eras before them, less was more in this time. Different types of pockets became the detail piece of this period; bound pockets, slanted flap pockets,breast pocket with button and flap pocket. Again the decorative braid was in and used on hats but also to make a strip down the side of trousers. Buttons again were also used large buttons and button trim on jackets such as at the back or on the cuff.
Shirt
Shirts were made of linen and were often coloured either white, grey or black.
One of the key items worn by men were cravat tied in different ways with a turn-down starched wing collar. Shirts started to have pleats inserted into the button stands and removable stiff fronts (bibs) started to be worn for formal occasions with high stand collars to be worn with bow ties. Bibs were reversible to allow a man to hide any unsightly stains which
allowed them to keep a neat appearance without requiring the shirt to be laundered.Victorian shirts
were cut much more fully than modern shirts but the general shape of modern shirts was starting to show for example things like button cuffs, wing collars (either attachable or detachable), fitted shoulders and no gathered sleeves.Jacket
All jackets in this era had a centre back seam and one other curved seam into the arm holes which helped to shape the waistline in. Sleeves were close fitted with often a cuff and a gathered sleeve head.This centenary was heavily dominated by the frock coat which was a man’s coat with full skirt both front and back that reached just above the knee. It was common for both day and evening wear through the 1880’s, making it the most versatile coat of the Victorian wardrobe. Often these coats would have a box pleat or normal pleat at the back to help with fullness in the back of the jacket. Tailcoats which were coats similar to the George high front jacket which swooped back to a vent at the back as seen in the picture bellow in the middle. This was the most popular jacket worn for parties and formal events. Like today, the styling included single and double breasted as well as straight and pointed fronts.
Please note that with straight cut coats,
gentlemen often wore vests that were cut longer, allowing the bottom of
the vest to show beneath the coat.In the 1870’s the sack suit briefly grew in popularity. The suit was cut in a large box like shape and no middle seam, which allowed the suit to hang loosely on the body. This jacket was quickly replaced in 1880 to became more fitted and a middle seam directly above the coat pockets, there edges started to round off instead of being angled.
Another jacket which grow in popularity and stayed for many years was the smoking jackets. They are short, made of velvet or silk, and feature a shawl collar and turned up cuffs. They fasten with toggle buttons. The jackets were quilted and, in a nod to their dressing-gown origins, can be fastened with rope ties. The jacket looked more like a jacket and less like a silk bathrobe however with its tight-fitting sleeves, velvet collar and buttons.
Waistcoat
Waistcoats started to cut on the bias and began to have an array of collar types as should in the picture. For formal wear cummerbunds were introduced to stop the gap appearing between the trousers waistband and the shirt. Cummerbunds are a strip of wide fabric often pleated t provide shape which are clasped at the back with a hook and bar. This also helped to nip in the waist which was one of the main aspects of men's fashion at the time. Waistcoats had often a great deal of embroidered or were made of damask fabric for contract with the outer jacket. Waistcoats during this time were either single or double breasted depending on the occasion and time of dress. Formal wear waistcoats started to have a pointed front to draw the attention of the eye in and down thus making the wearer appear slimmer. Pockets started to appear on waistcoats as a practical aspect and a decorative, flap pockets being the most popular for this. The more pockets on the waist coats outside the more casual the occasion you were going to. For example waist coats with two longer lockets were often used as evening or formal wear whereas waistcoats with three or four were for day to day wear or work.Trousers
The biggest difference between the trousers of today and those of the 1800’s is the waistline. Men wore their pants higher with the top of the trouser or just below the belly button.
Men wore trousers that were either stripes or checks which they often paired with different jackets which was sometime patterned also. Men did not wear their trousers pressed with a crease, but rather with a flat front. Lengths of trousers did vary slightly over the decades, from the shortest cut that caused the trousers to hang completely straight to the longest, in which the trouser hung to the bottom of the heel of the boot and in some cases were coat under neither, they were all however slim fitted. Loads of the trousers at this time refactored a decorative strip down the side of the leg in either fabric, embroidery or braid. To help shape these high-waisted trousers tucks or pleats were introduced at the waist to give more shape. Another shape that was introduced to trousers was the fly-front fastening which to start with used buttons to seal the opening. Belts weren’t used however suspenders or braces of leather or canvas were commonly used to hold up the trousers over the shoulders.
HatThe two most common types of hat worn during this time were top hat which varied in high depending of the decade and occasion. The brim of the top hat also varied sometimes curling up at the edges were as others remained flat. Tall top hats were worn for formal occasions also with tail coat, white bow tie and waistcoat. Another hat that started to appear later in this era was the bowler hat sometimes called The Derby.
Shoes
Shoes of this time were now all made in soft leather or sued. They were often boots with flat heels often with a toe caps detail at the front or a flat pump shoe also made of leather which was worn for formal dress.
Accessories
Accessories of this time included things such as walking sticks, leather gloves (later becoming driving gloves), fur collars sitting of a jacket during winter , shoulder cape for evenings, silk hankie in a pocket.
Late:-
Jacket/Waistcoat
The general shape of waistcoats didn't alter however some of there features changed over the decade. Flap pockets were replaced by patch pockets on the more casual waistcoats. The backs of the waist coats became more fitted thanks to curved seams on the back wile falling straighter at the front. White waistcoats however were still widely worn for evening events.The three-piece lounge suit grew in popularity and regularly worn from the 1890s onwards. Frock coats were still worn, but generally by older or more conservative men. Straps started to be worn on jackets much as at the cuffs and the top of vents similar to the trench coats of today, there were often paired with buttons. Side pleats at the backs of jackets started to turn into centre back vents so that the jacket wouldn't become creased when men sat down. Long coat of heavy wool tweed became popular and astrakhan collars with wool trim became widely worn as seen in the picture. Shorter jackets started to come into fashion with darts to pull in at the waists paired with wide rounded roll collars and revers.
Hat
Shallow bowler hats like Porkpie Hats were widely worn by working class to work. Deer-stalker hat started to be worn in the country side or during traveling. On the streets straw boater and felt trilby started to make an appearance.
Shoes
Felt spats started to be worn over boots to protect them from dirt as keeping shoes clean wasn't easy. Leather boots with dark suede toe-caps or shiny when worn for formal wear were worn more frequently. The classic work shoe of today started to a peer with its pointed toe and lace up front.
Accessories Cravats started to be knotted like the ties of todays often with a tie pin. Pocket watches were worn attached at the button of the waistcoat and into the pocket of the coat or waistcoat as time was very important now because of working and industry. Walking cane with silver knob were used for the higher class members of sociality.
References:
Fashion in Detail: 1700 - 2000 by Claire Wilcox
Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail by
Lucy Johnston
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits
http://www.costumegallery.com/1882/Etiquette/
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Smoking_Jacket_for_Men
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Victorian_Fashion.htm
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/victorian-clothing-guide.php
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/0-9/reading-list-19th-century-fashion/
Amazing attractions for the Victorian era:- http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/g/great-exhibition/
http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/i/industrial-revolution/
Monday, 2 December 2013
Victorian 19th Century
Victorian fashion is one of the most complicated to write about as it went over a great many years and in that time the silhouettes changed at least 3 to 4 times to see a wonderful breakdown see:- http://trulyvictorian.com/history.html. The clothing is all based around the S line or hourglass shape which was created by the corsets. This time period has some of my favourite style details.Beginning:-
During this time fabrics were starting to become much more available because of cotton production and larger imports. Spotted muslin, taffeta and silk were commonly used for evening or fancy occasions. Woven fabric fabrics were widely available. Lace, ribbons and fringing were widely used as decoration.
Draped silk, braid trim, rushing, bias binding were used to embellish bodices and skirts with lots of fabric edges decorated.
Bodice waist lines had fallen again; to help to start to give this S-line silhouette. Off the shoulder bodices were very common for evening wear to help to show off the collar bone which was seen as being very attractive. Velvet inset panels were commonly used around the neck to cover the bust often added to old dresses with a square neckline. Over sized collars,frilled over sleeves, tight cuffs,short puff sleeves, peplums, shaped cuff sleeves,large sleeve decorations, circular cuffs were all very popular during this time period.
For the skirts they went giant again with the aid of hoop skirts/ crinoline cages, large bum rolls and petticoats. This helped to relieve some of the weight from the lower back. Tiered skirt and double frills at the hem were exceedingly popular for all times of day.
Common accessories of the time included ring letting the hair with bows and ribbons to hold them in place, artificial flowers, small bonnets, fitted coats to help to show off the tiny waist, decorative braid/ frog fastenings, shawls, large brooches, drape earrings, small bowler hats and capes.
Middle:-
Striped and patterned fabrics were heavily used during this time. Man made dies were starting to be used thanks to industry so navy and indigo coloured fabrics were very common place. Bias cut fabrics started to be used because it was found they draped better than weft cut fabric.
Bodices sleeves started to puff out again, waist position rose a bit so that bodices would sit on the natural waist and not on the hip. Large cuffs and small stand collar were widely used.
Skirts had paded and frilled petticoats, top skirts pulled back by swags for more volume and to create a train. This created a very flat front and sides skirt with everything pulled to the back. Under skirts were embroidered as they were seem, extra fabric was added to the back for more draping. Apron fronts with decorated edges often covered the front of dresses and hems often had large pleated attached.
Hair net with beads attached started to be worn to hold the hair back. Short gloves and straw hats with ribbons and flowers were worn every day when travelling.
Brocade fabric came back into fashion and pipping decorations started to be seen very often.
Bodice shoulder points were set further back to encourage you to sit with a proper posture. Bodices extended again so that they sat over the hips with an extra back panel used to make the jackets a closer fit. Seams were boned to help retain the structure and to aid corsets with holding the wearer in. Neck lines were high during the day and often tucked or pleated were as for evenings they neck-lines were off the shoulder or scoop necked.
Skirts unlike the bottoms were very full with long trains, narrow hems,gathered bustles. Lots of ruffles, lace, gathers and rushing to create volume. This all helped to show off the tiny waists.
Felt hat with feathers in a small bowler hat fashion were often worn on day outings. Another hat that was very popular was a narrow curved brims hat which was often decorated with silk flowers. Women started to carry small fabric bags. Pearl necklace, earrings and fancy broochs were often worn mostly commonly about the throat to hold up a scarf or tucked neck line. Narrow cut leather boots with toe caps were all the range.
Movies and TV:- The Young Victoria 2009, Dracula 1992, As You Like It 2006, The Age of Innocence 1993, Cold Mountain 2003, Far and Away 1992, The Illusionist 2006, The Prestige 2006, The Legend of Zoro 2005, The Portrait of a Lady 1996, Sweeney Todd 2007, The Phantom of the Opera 2004, Moulin Rouge 2001, Interview with the Vampire 1994, Stardust 2007, Anna Karenina 2012, Jane Eyre 2011, Tipping the Velvet (book), Victoria and Albert 2001, The Beaux' Stratagem (play), North and South 2004, Kate and Leopld 2001, Great Expectations 2012, Secret Garden 1993, Dorian Gray 2009, Sherlock Holmes 2009-2011, League of Extraordinary Gentlemen 2003, Ripper Street 2012-2013, The Raven 2012, Cranford 2007, Lark Rise Candleford 2008,
History Events:- Napoleonic wars. The First Railway. First Education Act, Industrial revolution, Victoria became the longest raining monarch.
References:-
Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold
http://thats-not-victorian.tumblr.com/post/34824134342/womens-fashion-timeline-19th-and-early-20thGreat reference for outfit break down and how the fashions changed:- http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/fashion.html
Amazing pictures and references:- http://www.vam.ac.uk/page/v/victorian-fashion/
For fun:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR6q5m258Mk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6IPjwR1j5w
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)