Showing posts with label Tudor. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tudor. Show all posts
Thursday, 7 July 2016
Friday, 15 November 2013
Late Tudors 14th-15th Century
I was just going to leave the Tudors at that but when I was flicking through books I noticed the change of fashion after Henry VIII death. During Edward VI and The Bloody Mary the fashion changes quite suddenly, same basic shapes of the long waist length bodices and full skirts but it becomes much more conserved.
Fabrics became darker coloured with more deep purples, blues and blacks being worn. Brocade, lace and velvets being the most used fabrics at the time. Small lace detailing was the most common decorative aspect of clothes.
Neck lines on bodices become higher, often covering the neck with lace, linen or high collars. The wing collars became very in fashion. When Mary took the throne the sleeves became slime fitted with small princess puff at the top. Wide ruffles around the cuffs and on stand collars were very popular. Shoulder capes and padded epaulettes (section between the bodice and sleeve join) were also popular.
Skirts were less gathered than before but just a full. Less material at the waist but just as much at the hem. More like a corn shape. Layered skirts again but not very gathered; skirts often had a plainer fabric covering a decorative under fabric.
Accessories of the time were big veils. Fine linen caps along with French hoods and Atifets become the normal fashion but very plain with only a simple edging such a pearls or lace. Very minimum jewels was worn compared to the earlier years. Men's caps were worn with a plume also seen in Elizabethan.
Fun fact:- They used to have a fur lined muff in cold weather on a chain for if there hands got cold.
References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
I think this change happened because of Mary's very strong Catholic beliefs. That woman should cover their bodies as much as possible as a sign of purity and chastity.
Fabrics became darker coloured with more deep purples, blues and blacks being worn. Brocade, lace and velvets being the most used fabrics at the time. Small lace detailing was the most common decorative aspect of clothes.
Neck lines on bodices become higher, often covering the neck with lace, linen or high collars. The wing collars became very in fashion. When Mary took the throne the sleeves became slime fitted with small princess puff at the top. Wide ruffles around the cuffs and on stand collars were very popular. Shoulder capes and padded epaulettes (section between the bodice and sleeve join) were also popular.
Skirts were less gathered than before but just a full. Less material at the waist but just as much at the hem. More like a corn shape. Layered skirts again but not very gathered; skirts often had a plainer fabric covering a decorative under fabric.
Accessories of the time were big veils. Fine linen caps along with French hoods and Atifets become the normal fashion but very plain with only a simple edging such a pearls or lace. Very minimum jewels was worn compared to the earlier years. Men's caps were worn with a plume also seen in Elizabethan.
Fun fact:- They used to have a fur lined muff in cold weather on a chain for if there hands got cold.
References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
I think this change happened because of Mary's very strong Catholic beliefs. That woman should cover their bodies as much as possible as a sign of purity and chastity.
Early Tudor 14th-15th Century
I find that this was one of the points in history were fashion became more of a focus point especial in the royal courts around the world. Both men and women were dedicated to out doing each other on the latest trends. The more up to date your clothes were the wealthier a position you were. I could write essays on each item alone so I've tried to keep it prefer but showed links and books for more details.
For women one of there key trends were head dresses. For balls and events smaller more delicate pieces might be worn but for normal days the most common pieces were the French hood and the English hood.
French Hoods were circular and made popular when Anne Boleyn was Queen because of her spending time the French court. The front border fitting close round the head, was curved forward on either side to end over the ears. Only revealing the front of the hair. The back of the crown was raised into a horseshoe-shaped curve over the head. A veil was attached at the back to cover the hair. Decorations varied but the basic look stayed the same.
English/Gable Hoods were so-called because its pointed shape resembles the gable of a house. The shape resembles a pentagon with a veil to cover the hair at the back. The hood sits further forwards than the French hood so as it cover all hair.
Atifets were still very popular during this period (see Mediaeval for details). Coifs which are linen caps were worn under heavy head dresses.
Fabrics of the time became more decorative and lavish. New techniques like pleats and scalloping became used to decorate fabrics with gather becoming used more and more. Furs, wool and linen were still widely used for winter and mostly under garments. Damask, silk and velvet became more used in high sociality. People started to use fabrics to contacts and show off layers of there garments. People who could make dresses and embroider were very sot after for kings and queens. Dies for the fabric were all organic.
Bodices at this time went to the waist and had a low squared neckline. The corsets of this time helped to create a full bust but a nipped in corn shape toward the waist. Bodices were decorated with pearls, religious pendants, chains, broaches, thin or lace fabric around the edges. Sleeves were very large and often edged with lace often with deep cuffs. I often thought it was a challenge set to who could fit the most fabric in one sleeve with these clothes. There would be at least 4 layers for the top section including smock, corset, tie on sleeves and top of the dress.
Skirts had multi-table layers including petticoat, smock,bum roll and at least 2 or 3 layers for the skirt and dress itself.
For more details see these links:-
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/tudor-clothes/
http://www.tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/renaissance_costume_glossary_2.shtml
Fun fact:- Tudor sleeves were filled with horse hair to help with padding them out. Pomander case were carried on chains to help the wearer smell nice and "ward off illnesses". For more details view
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/pomanders/
Movies/ TV shows with good references:- The Tudors 2007-2010, Lady Jane 1995, The Other Boleyn Girl 2008, The Man in the Iron Mask 1986, The Girl with a Pearl Earring 2003,Blackadder Part II - 1985, Orlando 1992, Prince and the Pauper was said to be set during this time.
Key History Events:- King Henry VIII becomes the head of the Church of England. The Black Plague arrives in London. The War of the Roses took place.
References:-
http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_thetudors.shtml
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
For women one of there key trends were head dresses. For balls and events smaller more delicate pieces might be worn but for normal days the most common pieces were the French hood and the English hood.
French Hoods were circular and made popular when Anne Boleyn was Queen because of her spending time the French court. The front border fitting close round the head, was curved forward on either side to end over the ears. Only revealing the front of the hair. The back of the crown was raised into a horseshoe-shaped curve over the head. A veil was attached at the back to cover the hair. Decorations varied but the basic look stayed the same.
Atifets were still very popular during this period (see Mediaeval for details). Coifs which are linen caps were worn under heavy head dresses. Fabrics of the time became more decorative and lavish. New techniques like pleats and scalloping became used to decorate fabrics with gather becoming used more and more. Furs, wool and linen were still widely used for winter and mostly under garments. Damask, silk and velvet became more used in high sociality. People started to use fabrics to contacts and show off layers of there garments. People who could make dresses and embroider were very sot after for kings and queens. Dies for the fabric were all organic.
Bodices at this time went to the waist and had a low squared neckline. The corsets of this time helped to create a full bust but a nipped in corn shape toward the waist. Bodices were decorated with pearls, religious pendants, chains, broaches, thin or lace fabric around the edges. Sleeves were very large and often edged with lace often with deep cuffs. I often thought it was a challenge set to who could fit the most fabric in one sleeve with these clothes. There would be at least 4 layers for the top section including smock, corset, tie on sleeves and top of the dress.
Skirts had multi-table layers including petticoat, smock,bum roll and at least 2 or 3 layers for the skirt and dress itself.
For more details see these links:-
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/tudor-clothes/
http://www.tudorshoppe.com/Merchant2/renaissance_costume_glossary_2.shtml
Fun fact:- Tudor sleeves were filled with horse hair to help with padding them out. Pomander case were carried on chains to help the wearer smell nice and "ward off illnesses". For more details view
http://www.theanneboleynfiles.com/resources/tudor-life/pomanders/
Movies/ TV shows with good references:- The Tudors 2007-2010, Lady Jane 1995, The Other Boleyn Girl 2008, The Man in the Iron Mask 1986, The Girl with a Pearl Earring 2003,Blackadder Part II - 1985, Orlando 1992, Prince and the Pauper was said to be set during this time.
Key History Events:- King Henry VIII becomes the head of the Church of England. The Black Plague arrives in London. The War of the Roses took place.
References:-
http://www.costumersguide.com/cr_thetudors.shtml
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
Costume Through The Ages by Over 1400 Illustrations by Erhard Kleepper
The Tudor Tailor Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress by
Jane Malcolm-Davies and Ninya Mikhaila
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion
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