Thanks to Gillian I realised my problems with with draping and had a great insight into different way of making the same effect.I need to remember that the process is more important than the final project. This articular is mainly to talk about different of getting fullness to a skirt or in this case a jacket.
Splitting Pattern:-
So the key thing for this techniques is to decide where you want the flare to come from (bust, waist or hip). In the case of this jacket I wanted the flare to come from the hip. I worked out how many slips I wanted (I find four is a nice number because it helps to shape the pattern again). Make on the splits and the splitting point, you can cut into the line a little to make it sit flat. Measure the amount you want to split each section by and draw round it.
Pleats/Vents:- This is obvious but having pleats in the side seams and back. There are different types of pleats and they can vary in size of pleat and shaping between them. It's just a case of folding the pleats in the way which best suits the design and were you want the extra fabric to fall. The vent helps for the garment to sit open at the back so it sits wider without the extra fabric.
Flaring Panel in all areas before gathering or pleating:-
A method Gillian suggested that extending the side seam before gathering or pleating it back in to the size require before attaching it to the side seam back. This creates a smocking effect like this which could become a cute decorative feature of the jacket depending on the fabric used. Light weight fabric would work best.
Gathering into a pocket:-
Another way to make a jacket have more flare is to have gathering coming from the side pockets.
Bodice top and skirt circle pattern bottom/ Peplum:- This is a simple idea of creating a bodice block and adding in a circle skirt with a wide circle. Depending of the size of the circumference and the section takes for the skirt will depend of the fall of the fabric. It can be gather to the bodice for extra flare or none which can still flow ever nicely. Remember the smaller the inner circle the more drape. The wider the inner circle and the section cut from it the less flare and drape.
I started the day with making up a fitted and gathered sleeve for the jacket. I took a basic sleeve pattern, checked it fit my pattern after I widened the pattern sync. I then split the pattern to tightened the bottom of the sleeve and curved it in inwards so that its more shaped. I extended the top of the head but 5cm at each section and reshaped the head accordingly. It turned out very well when I inserted it into the arm hole. It's lightly gather which is very nice. I've decided to go with my piping insert for the cuff detail instead of the button cuff detail like from the original jacket. I need to extend the front of the jacket by at least 2 inches so that I can attach buttons or poppers.
The details I did decide to use however were a patch pocket with a flap with pipped edging. This pipping detail will continue to the cuff edging with curled detail and to the back with a placket which will have pipped edges and buttons. I have decided to have a lapel with a roll collar so that I can have one or the other. I may also try a hood tomorrow just to make my mind up completely. So tomorrow I should have all the details of the jacket decided, cuff and collar. I will also have adjusted all of my patterns so that I can start to make the jacket from Thursday onwards. I will make up a cutting list and decide of my fabric on Thursday before going to buy it. I think I am going to go for a teal tartan high light fabric for the pocket, cuff and placket maybe or a panel. The main fabric will be grey and the lining will be purple. The pipping will be black or grey.
