Regency 18th Centuary

Fabrics and Techniques
Fabrics during this item period were mainly made within the UK. Fabrics were made of linen, cotton, wool and silks. Weaves started to made fabrics in check, strip and damask fabric.

Shirts
The shirt was usually of linen or cotton. They were again long and loose fitting, with  the sleeves set off the shoulder. Collars were often high standing collars that extended up sometimes even above the jaw line, when this got irritating the wing collar was created. Sometimes the shirt had pleats and gathered to add fullness, ruffles were added at the chest. The sleeve cuffs were greatly reduced to a small frill or a straight band pecking out under the jacket. The shirt had a slit in the front and pulled on over the head. It was mid-thigh to knee length and was quite often the only undergarment. As seen in the Pride and Prejudice series in it's most iconic scene.

Waistcoats
The waistcoats were made from wool, linen and silk. They could be a solid colour but were often a brocade, stripe or other pattern like check which was coming into fashion. The waistcoat ends at the actual waist now, the front however low cut into shapes such as shawl collar and rever collars. Double breasted fastenings on waist coat became very popular now, mirroring the military fastenings from the Colonial period. Revers faced or collar were often in contract fabric or lining.  The waistcoat extended below the front of the tailcoat and covered the top of the trousers or breeches.

Coat
There were three types of coats featured in this time frock-coats, tail coats and over coats. First came the tail coat from the Georgian coats which had started to slope back, the front's straightened off and started to be worn for formal occasions or my the richer people. It was high in the back of the neck, fitted in the back, chest and abdomen, had long tails and the wide “M notch” lapels so distinctive of the period. It could be either single or double breasted and could be worn open or closed. The tailcoat was usually made of wool though sometimes of linen for warm climates and seasons. Tight sleeves with gathered sleeve heads were the most common type of sleeve in this time for all types of jacket, small button vent cuffs started to be seen. There were many colour options for day wear but for evenings conservative darker ones such as black and navy were most fashionable. Buttons could be self-fabric covered or of brass or pewter.
Frock coats fell to the knee and often had wide collars, wide pointed revers, flap pockets and pleated detail with open vent. Narrow shoulders were common on all coats and waist coats which helped to show off the gathered shirt sleeves when coats were removed. Capes were often worn over an over coat for extra warmth.


  
Breeches/Trousers

Breeches started to change into the trousers that we now see today for men's formal wear. Silk stockings were still worn with beeches for awhile before being replace by boots. Trousers/breeches started to have pockets. Breeches were gradually fading out during this period. For a time they remained the proper item for evening wear then were relegated to only very formal occasions and then survived only as “court” apparel for certain royal occasions. Breeches could be made of wool, cotton, linen or silk with the latter best for the most formal events. They tended to have a higher waist in front and a little less baggy seat than the late 18th century version. However, they still had a drop front, were fitted in the thighs and buckled or buttoned just below the knees.Narrow cut trousers, ankle length with stirrrup under foot started to be worn. Trousers became commonplace during the Regency era. The trousers had a high waist line the came all the way up to the belly button. They were drop fronted and were held up by braces.Trousers were made of wool, linen or cotton. Though initially only appropriate for day wear they eventually gained acceptance for evening attire as well. There was a case were The Duke of Wellington was kicked out of a high class French club because he wore trousers instead of breeches.

Shoes
Buckled shoes gradually went out. Light slip on shoes with the buckle were popular however. Most shoes would be black and made of leather. Both low cut slip on shoes and ankle high boots were worn. Boots were high and of black or brown leather. "Bluchers," "Wellingtons" and a style very like modern English riding boots were all used.Toe caps started to come into fashion towards the end of this era which welcomed in the Victorian period.

Accessories
Deep cravats and bow ties,Typical of this era was a long, narrow strip of linen or silk which wrapped several times around the neck and was then tied in front. Many forms of tying were popular, some considered more formal and others most suitable for casual wear. Leather gloves, walking cane and  pocket watches were all very common during this time.

Hats
A very tall, straight top hat with a narrow curled up brim was the height of fashion during this period. The bicorn was high, wide and of shallow depth. It was popularized as a military fashion and was worn by Napoleon, though some civilians wore it too. Many specialized types of headgear were in use as well such as the flat, round hats of sailors.

Civil War Influence on Fashion:-
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/1812-french-mens-clothing
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Civil_War_Fashion

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
 Fashion History: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century by Akiki Fukai
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits
http://www.songsmyth.com/menday.html
http://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/29/what-men-wore-at-regency-assembly-balls/
http://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2013/06/21/regency-fashion-mens-breeches-pantaloons-and-trousers/
http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm
https://mmbennetts.wordpress.com/tag/regency-menswear/
http://www.regencyassembly.co.uk/Dress.html
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Regency_Fashion.htm
 http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm
Recreation of the Ball in Pride and Prejudice(TV show)

History of the Waistcoat

Break down of Waistcoat History:-
http://www.waistcoatsdirect.co.uk/articles/waistcoat-history-timeline.asp

1990 – Waistcoats were cut large, collarless, single-breasted with welt pockets in silk, brocade & demin
1980 – Use mainly as part of a three-piece suit, single-breasted, cut large in bright colours with big patterns in silk, satin, lurex or embroidered denim.
1970 – Only worn as part of a three-piece suit, fitted, single-breasted and collarless.
1960 – Fitted, collarless, single-breasted, cloth matching the jacket. Leather waistcoats were popular.
1940 & 1950 – Collarless, single-breasted, worn only as part of a three-piece suit to match the jacket cloth. Waistcoats were less popular due to war-time rationing.
1930 – Fitted, single-breasted, collarless matching the jacket cloth, knitted waistcoats
1920 – Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, often matching the jacket. Sometimes replaced with a knitted waistcoat or sweater.
1910 – Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, narrow lapels, cloth to match the jacket.
1900 – Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, wool cloths to match the jacket. King Edward VII – influenced.
1890 – Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, plain wool cloths, patterned velvets
1880 - Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, plain wool cloths, silk
1870 - Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, high fastenings, silk, welt pockets, velvet, matching the jacket
1860 - Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, cloth matching the jacket
1850 - Fitted, single-breasted, collarless, welt pockets, jacquard-woven silk or matching the coat
1840 – Fitted, single breasted, collar and revers, shawl collars, welt pockets, silk or matching the coat
1830 - Fitted, single- or double-breasted, with or without collars, pointed and shaped fronts, silk or matching the coat.
1820 - Fitted, single-breasted, collar and revers, shawl collars, plain or embroidered silk or matching the coat.
1810 - Fitted, single-breasted, high fastenings, stand collars, embroidered silks
1800 - Fitted, single-breasted, high fastenings, stand collars, embroidered or striped silks
1790 - Fitted, single- or double-breasted, high stand collars, embroidered or silk fabrics. Waistcoats gradually became shorter until reached the waist in 1790.
1780 – Double-breasted styles were very popular.
1770 - Fashionably worn to the upper part of the thigh, opening to a "V" beneath the stomach. Waistcoats were made of silk, wool, cotton and linens. They could be printed, embroidered, brocaded, tasselled, quilted, silver or gold or silver laced. Generally the focal point and most elaborate article of men's dress.
1750 - Waistcoats were a brilliant display of luxury fabrics and detail such as bold buttons. They were made with sleeves until 1750.
1668 - As an undercoat the waistcoat was cut similar to the justaucorps. Justaucorps or justacorps was a tight fitting knee-length coat, fitted at the waist and flared below, and worn over a waistcoat.
1666 – Waistcoats were introduced by Charles II as correct dress during the restoration of the monarchy. These were a simple straight cut made from black cloth with a white silk lining.

How To Wear A Waistcoat Rules & Tips

• Buy a waistcoat that fits. It should feel comfortable but fit your frame closely, not bagging under the arms because the chest size it too big or straining at the buttons because it is too small
• Avoid a belt. Traditionally belts were not worn with waistcoats. Wear button on braces instead but if you must wear a belt make sure that the length of the waistcoat is sufficient to cover it.
• Vintage is just as good as modern
• Tighten the waistcoat at the rear and secure it properly so it does not hang loose
• An ‘horseshoe’ waistcoat should only be worn with a bow tie.
• NEVER do the bottom button up on a single breasted waistcoat

History Links:-
http://bespokeunit.com/the-waistcoat-the-history-background/
http://www.asuitthatfits.com/offthecuff/short-history-mens-waistcoat/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waistcoat
http://www.menswearstyle.co.uk/2012/10/23/a-history-of-the-waistcoat/190
http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/waistcoat-part-1.html
http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/victorian-clothing-guide.php

Georgian/Coloenal 18th Centuary

Fabrics and Techniques
Many of the previous era's decorations hung around such as buttons and buttonholes which were mere decoration to the coats. Braid trim, ribbon with coloured thread and delicately embroidered. Fabrics started to become much more lavish as we travelled the world more frequently, fabrics from India, The Middle East and Asia started to be used in fashion for rich peoples coating. Delicate woven materials like the waist coat example below became widely used and very popular for both men and women. Muslin, cotton, linen and lace were still widely used for shirts, insides of jackets, curvets and on women's clothing also. Silks, velvets and damask were used mainly on men's jackets, breeches and now waistcoats.
Shirts
Like the previous Stuart era remained as linen shirts. Embroidery however wasn't often used on them to be replace by lace, the shape and gathering however started to lessen into less possible gathers. The main force of the time was on the jackets which for a time were bold and eccentric in there massive cuffs and skirt pleat features.

Jacket, Waistcoats and Coats
Three piece suit with matching waistcoat and breeches started to become all the rage during this time. Embroidery was used frequently at the beginning of this period around the edges of pockets, cuffs, collars and hems. Open seams started to be needed to get access swords so that the garment doesn't get damaged. On jackets stiffening and padding had completely disappeared from coats to be replaced by curves and over time cut away fronts started to be introduced, beginning to show the shape of tailcoats. The coats had a military feel which mimicked the suits worn by soldiers during the Napoleonic wards. Coats were collarless. In addition to the deep, pointed collar, there are small revers at the front- a new development in cut that dominated men's coats for several decades. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Justacorps

Waistcoats lost their skirts and there length, they started to be worn at the waist line and were straight cut across at the waist. So that the waist coat was still seen a short stand collars with step collars was used so that it would petrude from underneath the jacket neckline. 

The coat itself has started to slope back at the bottom, and so it can't button all the way down. This is a great example of something that started out as functional and becomes non-functional but very fashionable. Narrow side pleats, often with a detail to show were the split is
superfine wool with a felted finish. However later in the century, the fullness in the skirt in the coat started to go down and the sleeve cuffs began to shrink. The coat is started to have a sleeker appearance, changing into a frock coat shape.

Waistcoat started off as being long sometime as long as the coat. However the waist coats followed suit with the coats, the waistcoat started to get shorter. Waist coats rose up to the waist as the Regency period started to change fashion.



American made suit dating to 1775-1785. Silk faille, cotton/linen plain weave,  silk, taken from Pintrest

Breeches
Breeches of this time came to just below the knee and were tight fitting on the thighs. They were either buttoned or kept up with a belt and a laced tie in the back helped to adjust the size of the waistband. Stockings came up over the knee and held in place by leather garters worn under the breeches. silk stockings and knee breeches,

Accessories
A typical outfit consisted of leather shoes with a stacked heels with large rounded tongues. At the begin of the era wigs were the most expensive constructed from real human hair but cheaper alternatives were made from wool or horse and goat hair. The look was completed with a tri-corne hat with upturned brim or another form of military style hat with cord or braid. As the century progressed the male silhouette underwent subtle changes; wigs were tied back with ribbon, before falling out of fashion all together. Shoes became low heeled and fastened with buckles, straps or ribbons. Cravat made of silk or tafetta tucked into neck of waistcoat and often were worn in bows.

References:-
Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th Centuries by Avril Hart and Susan North
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-king-george-iii-mens-coat-drawings.htm
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2010/02/brief-evolution-of-mens-18th-century.html
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Georgian_Fashion.htm
http://www.19th-century-tailoring.co.uk/
https://www.pinterest.com/juliroo/the-way-we-wore-late-georgian-1750-1790/
http://www.wemakehistory.com/
http://shinealightproject.wordpress.com/2013/12/03/the-georgians/
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Slideshow:Colonial_Fashion#1

Stuart/Georgian/Coloenal Clothing Construction

Extracts from The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh

"Pleated skirts to a man's silk dress coat of 1740s are stiffened with interlining of woven horsehair and buckram and lined with a further layer of unspun wool. This gives dramatic flare to the skirts causing them to stand out independently. Full skirts have open side seams which are kept in place by stays of chain-stitched thread and several buttons which hold the open seams together, and serve a decorative as well as a practical purpose. When open, the side seams and centre back vent, which had their origins in riding dress allowed the coat to drape comfortably when seated on a horse. stiff interlinings. layers of buckram to stiffen collar. Collars often had a point at the back.   The fronts curve back sharply, the side seams have moved closer to the centre back and pleats are narrow."

1680-1880
"A layer one firm fabric between the lining and top layer to strength the fabric. Very skilful in making his pleat so that there is no gap. The front must then be stiffened with buckram. It is to the reverse side from top to bottom along the edges, four inches broad at the shoulder, widening to within in inches at the armhole, then narrowing to the seventh or eighth buttonhole. Then a strip of straight material is placed all long the edge, pleated to shape where the chest is rounded, and all  three layers of stiffening are then whip-stitched to the edge of the coat. a small plastron of cotton wool is stitched to the buckram on the chest towards the collar-bone to fill in the hollow which is always found here."

"The skirt of the coat used to have a horsehair lining to hold it out, and was called a pannier (some people still like having a small pannier coming half away down the skirt). Work from the skirt opening upwards on jackets to ensure they line up. Pleat numbers four in the front and two and half in the back."

"The waist coat is made is made in the same way but only one buckram interlining which does not go as far as the shoulder.Shoulders of the doublet were set further back."

Pictures taken from  Historical Fashion in Detail The 17th and 18th Centuries by Avril Hart and Susan North and The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600-1900 by Norah Waugh

The Stuarts 17th Century

From Charles I 1625-49
Fabrics and Techniques
Only rich people could afford the expensive fabrics that were required, such as silk brocade and edgings of hand-made lace (collars, garters, cuffs, glove edges). Braid or embroidered trim were used heavily in all manner of ways such as coat edges and pocket decoration. Another fabrics used during this time are linen, cotton, velvet, silk, rusett/straights, say, twill, fustians, leather and tight weave frieze to stiffen garments of clothing. The favourite colours of the Queen of time (Henrietta Maria of France) were orange, blue, grey, peach, yellow and olive green, and these were often adopted by her courtiers.
Different weaves started to be used such as Plain or tabby weave, Twill weave, Satin weave, Velvet weave, Damask weave and Brocade weave. Please look at this artificial for more details:- http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/exhibitions/in-fine-style-the-art-of-tudor-and-stuart-fashion/fabrics

Shirts
Instead of ruffs, there were wire-ringed collars and later wide flat collars.The long sleeves gave way to  fuller and looser sleeves which gathered at the wrist or forearm. Light and bright colours and were often quilted or embroidered to decorated them. The over all shape was still very similar to the Tudors shirts before them. Men wore shirts under doublets or waistcoats and were see through gaps in the clothing. Shirts were made of linen or cotton and were heavily gathered. Large deep lace cuffs were sometimes doubled and see from underneath the sleeve. The sleeve gathered were often drawn together with a ribbon or cord.

 
Coats/Doublets

The doublets were pointed in front but the waistlines started to rise and much later in the centenary this seam disappeared but by the middle of the century they were looser and were often left open in front to show the shirt worn underneath to become more of a coat. Getting rid of the boning and strong structure seen in the Tudor era. The look of this era was much more floaty and non restrictive. Soldiers of the period wore jerkins, which were sleeveless close fitting jacket/waistcoat. Peacode padding was replaced by belly plates which were two triangular pieces of extra stiffening which formed a lozenge centre front. As doublets got shorter and waist tabs on them became longer and wider to create extended panels. Sleeves had deep long cuts so that shirts were visible. Coats and jacket had large linen square collar with deep lace edges such as cuffs. While travelling men would often wear shoulder capes which sat on one should so as to allow for horse ridding and sometimes fighting. Sashes were  worn over the top of the shirt and waist coats to draw them in at the waist.

                                                                 From V&A collection
Breeches and Stockings
Silk stockings were worn tight and came to just above the knee. They were held in place by means of leather garters, bows or tied garters with fringed ends worn under the breeches. Breeches sometimes had buttoned at the side both for practical use or decorative details. It was one of the first times that details like this were used for the sole purpose of decoration not for practical use. Beeches of this time were gathered held at the knee. Breeches which were straight-cut started to to be worn without garters at the knee Some people say this was the start of the development of Regancy breeches.

Accessories

Most of the men wore beards that were pointed and a large moustache. Men wore tall-crowned hats with wide brims decorated with plumes when outdoors and at court. They wore their hair at collar length and very fashionable men wore a long strand of hair over one shoulder. This strand was called a lovelock.  Long walking stick with decorative knobs started to be carried by men along with gauntlets used for riding and duelling which became popular from France. 

Shoes
Leather shoes with small, stacked heels, decorated with ties, rosettes or bows. Soft leather boots with turn-down cuffs worn with spurs. Shoes decorated with pattern of punched holes.

Make up
Men and women of the court both wore make-up. This had happened in Elizabethan times too, but now make-up was used more often. It was fashionable to have a very pale complexion. This demonstrated that a person was rich enough not to have to work outside in the fields. To make quite sure that skin remained pale, people sometimes wore masks when outdoors. Powders and creams could also help achieve pallor. A pale complexion was achieved by making a cream from powdered white chalk or white lead, mixed with white of egg and vinegar. This made a smooth shiny finish and people had to be careful not to laugh or the new ‘skin’ would crack.The use of these powders and ointments, especially ones containing lead and mercury, was very bad for the skin, and after a while resulted in scars and blemishes. To hide these it became the fashion for both men and women to wear patches on the face. These were cut into a huge variety of shapes and patterns, including stars, diamonds, crescent moons.

After Commonwealth 1660-85
This was the beginning of men wearing the three piece suit. This consisted of a coat, a waistcoat and breeches, which were close fitted to the knee.

Fabrics and Details
Broad welt side pockets with deep pocket bags started to be used on jackets and waistcoats. Button started to be used to decorate them in a military fashion often with parallel lines in embroidery or cord. Shoes, coats, hats and wigs started to be covered stiff narrow bows. Fine pleated edges started to be used on jacket cuffs and edges of hats. 

Shirt
Shirts were kept the same.

Jacket and Waistcoat 
Sleeve lines started to shorten to reveal more shirt as cuffs became more exadurated and wider. Jacket and waistcoat lines dropped further and started to flare out with pleating like a a skirt with front button fastening. Circular travelling cape. Jackets split at centre back and side seams with decorative buttons and buttonholes to allow for jacket movement and access to swords which men were allowed to carry.

Breeches
Breeches crept up again and became full gathered pumpkin like again like from the Tudor period, there edges were decorated with ribbon petticoats. Later in that period breeches started to become more fitted and like the breeches from before and made of velvet.

Accessories
Long curled/ringlets hair wigs (periwig). Wide brimmed hats with low crowns with large feathers, brooches, fine lace cravats.Bicorns started to be worn.

Shoes
Shoes with square toes and large bows with large tongues made of soft leather.


Reference:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock 
In fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion by Anna Reynolds
The First Georgians: Art & Monarchy 1714-1760 by Desmond Shawe-Taylor and Wolf Burchard
17th & 18th Century Fashion Detail (Fashion in Detail) by Hart A. and North S.
http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1660-1685-king-charles-ii-stuarts-restoration.htm
http://www.thefashionhistorian.com/2010/02/brief-evolution-of-mens-18th-century.html
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Stuart_Fashion.htm
http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century
http://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Tudor-Stuart-Fashion/
http://www.wikihow.com/Learn-About-the-English-Stuart-Period-%2817th-Century%29

Elizabethan/Renaissance 16th Century

While researching this period in time I've noticed that not very many different construction techniques were used for making there clothes compared to the Tudor period. Shapes and cut changed slightly but manufacturing was still the same.

Lots of the Tudor decorating techniques were still widely used:- long narrow slashes, braid-decorated sleeves, embroidery, narrow ruffs, lace edgings, padded epaulettes, long panes to the knee, large circler and square buttons.

Table of patterns, fabrics, colours even the clothes they could and could not wear used to be depended of social rank of the Tudor/ Elizabethan sociality:- http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing-allowed-men.htm

Breakdown of Elizabethan Dress for Men:-

Underclothes!	Over Clothes!
Shirt	Doublet
Stockings or hose	Separate sleeves
Codpiece	Breeches
	Belt
	Ruff
	Cloak
	Shoes
	Hat

Cloak/Coats/Jerkins
Small should capes with ribbon decoration were very popular as they were practical for riding as they kept your shoulders warm without too much extra fabric. Jerkins commonly didn't have sleeves in this time and often had fur linings to act as a body warmer in colder weather.The shape was very much similar to the Tudor cloaks, coats and jerkins but what the cloaks were trimmed with gave in identification of your place in society:-

• Cloaks trimmed with Sable Fur were only worn by Royalty, Dukes, Marquises, and Earls and Duchesses, Marquises and Countesses.
• Cloaks trimmed with Lucernces ( Fur from the lynx) were only worn by Dukes, Marquises, Earls, and their children, Viscounts, Barons, and Knights of the Garter and their wives, or any person being of the Privy Council.
• Cloaks trimmed with Genet ( this fur came from a member of the mongoose family, but similar to a cat) were only worn by Dukes, Marquises, Earls, and their children, Viscounts, Barons, and Knights of the Garter and their wives, or any person being of the Privy Council.
• Cloaks trimmed with Leopards were only worn by Baron's sons, Knights and Ambassadors and their wives.
• Cloaks trimmed with Wolf were only worn by Baron's sons, Knights and Ambassadors and their wives.
• Cloaks trimmed with Foins (Fur of the beech marten, a weasel-like animal ) were only worn by courtiers.
• Cloaks trimmed with Budge (Lambskin from North Africa and Spain) were only worn by courtiers.

Cod Piece

Early hoses were fitted to the leg but open at the crotch. Men's members simply hung loose under the doublet. Fashion dictated a shortening of the doublet which often resulted in exposed members. The origin of the codpiece was a small bag with a flap at the fork of the hose which was fastened by ties. Codpieces became designed to emphasize the male genitalia and were eventually padded, decorated and enlarged to astounding proportions.

Doublet/Shirt

• The materials that shirts were made of varying kinds of linen and for the Upper classes silk.
• Holland, Lawne, Camerick:- The three different types of expensive, very fine linen used at the time.
• All doublets and shirts were decorated with fine needlework, embroidery and trims of lace and ruffles.
• Sometimes stitched with open seams. Collars were often stand collars or tie necked and often gathered to the neck so they were airy and roomy.
• The price of shirts could be extremely expensive ranging from 10 shillings to an exhorbitant £20 ( which would probably have been for the shirts made of silk.)

During the latter part of the 16th Century the padding in doublets evolved into the peascod belly's; a style which ballooned out from the stomach, lending a curious pregnant air to the wearer. Sleeves were either sewn in or were detachable to allow for changing moods and climate.

Breeches

Trunk Hose - Very Short Breeches
These breeches were very short, covering just the trunk of the body. A tight fitting, full length hose was worn beneath them. Often paned (or pansied) with strips of fabric (panes) and padding over a full inner layer or lining. Popular in the second half of the 1500's.

Slops - Breeches
Loose, very full, hose reaching just below the knee, very large and wide and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes)

Galligaskin - Gally-hose Breeches
Originated in Gascony and introduced to England in the 1575 as a gift to the Court Fool. Loose, very full, hose reaching just below the knee, very large and wide and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes). were recorded in the Egerton Manuscript as having "pocketts, poyntes & a peire of netherstockes".

Common French Hose - Breeches
Common French Hose - very round, long, broad and wide worn by the Lower Classes

French Hose - Breeches
Semi-fitted breeches reaching beneath the knees. Paned and decorated with costly ornaments and canions and worn by nobility and the Upper Class men

Pluderhosen Breeches
A form of paned or pansied slops with a very full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee which originated in Germany 

Venetian Hose - Breeches
Originating in Venice, Italy. Semi-fitted and reaching beneath the knee and tied with silk attachment cords. Decorated with guards or rows of lace. Pockets were introduced into the seams.

 There were several types of breeches

• Two types of French hose
• Common French Hose - very round with length, breadth and width
• French hose - contained neither breadth or width but reaching beneath the knees. Paned and decorated with costly ornaments and canions
• Paned - Strips of fabric (panes) over a full inner layer or lining
• Canions, or cannions - tight fitting full length hose
• Gally Hose - very large and wide - reaching to the knees and ending with wide, highly decorative  bands of material (called guardes)
• Venetian Hose - Reaching beneath the knee and tied with silk attachment cords. Decorated with guards or rows of lace.
• Trunks padded with horsehair.
• Knitted silk stockings. 

page45

Hats

• The taller the hat the more important the man - lower classes wore woollen flat caps
• The Muffin cap - worn by the lower classes in cheap linen ( similar to a cooks hat )
• Tall Crown hat worn by the Upper Class - made with expensive fabrics - silk velvet etc
• The Flat cap worn by the Upper and Lower Class
• The Toque - similar to a flat cap
• Hat decorations - All classes and ages wore feathers in their hats. Hats worn by the Upper Class were expensively decorated with jewelled bands (called bilaments), broaches, badges and ribbons
• A Fool's Cap featured hornes, eares, ill faces and other such fopperies and were worn by court jesters, or fools

Shoes

• Boots - Boots were made of smooth or wrinkled leather, fittings were loose or tight, used for riding and walking
• Gamache - A gamache was a high boot
• Buskins - Buskins were calf length shoes / boots
• Startups - Startups were leather shoes worn as protective coverings for outdoor use
• Pumps - Pumps were light, or single-soled slip-on shoes
• Chopines - Chopines, or Chapineys, were slip-on over shoes made of wood and covered with leather
• Clogs - The clog was an outdoor, wooden shoe
• Corked Shoes - Corked shoes featured a wedge of cork between the foot and the sole
• Galoche - A Galoche, or Galage, was a protective overshoe
• Pantofle - A Pantofle came in two styles - a protective, outdoor overshoe and a slipper for indoors
• Pinsons - A pinson or pincnet was a delicate shoe
• Shoes often had cork heels and long tongue shoes

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
http://www.cam.ac.uk/research/features/what-goes-up-must-come-down-a-brief-history-of-the-codpiece
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-clothing-fashion-men.htm
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Tudor_Fashion.htm
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Elizabethan_Fashion_for_Men
http://www.shakespearesengland.co.uk/2010/01/13/mandillions-netherstocks-elizabethan-men-their-dress/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1550%E2%80%931600_in_Western_European_fashion
http://www.lepg.org/men.htm
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Men%27s_Fashion_During_the_Renaissance
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/

First week back from Christmas

8/1/2015!!
First week back from Christmas, falling straight into pattern cutting. A nice change not to be working on a show and spending time learning a new skill. Learning to grade patterns was a serous challenge but a challenge worth taking. It was really hard to grasp all the ways we did it but made so much sense once we saw it the final way which was by cutting up the pattern. The first way keeping the pattern whole made it so hard to visualise.  This is very useful to have learned though because if I get a pattern that need to be made bigger like a vintage patterns it means I know how to do this properly so it will fit a generic size.