Kelvingrove Exabition

Regency 18th Centuary

Fabrics and Techniques
Fabrics during this item period were mainly made within the UK. Fabrics were made of linen, cotton, wool and silks. Weaves started to made fabrics in check, strip and damask fabric.

Shirts
The shirt was usually of linen or cotton. They were again long and loose fitting, with  the sleeves set off the shoulder. Collars were often high standing collars that extended up sometimes even above the jaw line, when this got irritating the wing collar was created. Sometimes the shirt had pleats and gathered to add fullness, ruffles were added at the chest. The sleeve cuffs were greatly reduced to a small frill or a straight band pecking out under the jacket. The shirt had a slit in the front and pulled on over the head. It was mid-thigh to knee length and was quite often the only undergarment. As seen in the Pride and Prejudice series in it's most iconic scene.

Waistcoats
The waistcoats were made from wool, linen and silk. They could be a solid colour but were often a brocade, stripe or other pattern like check which was coming into fashion. The waistcoat ends at the actual waist now, the front however low cut into shapes such as shawl collar and rever collars. Double breasted fastenings on waist coat became very popular now, mirroring the military fastenings from the Colonial period. Revers faced or collar were often in contract fabric or lining.  The waistcoat extended below the front of the tailcoat and covered the top of the trousers or breeches.

Coat
There were three types of coats featured in this time frock-coats, tail coats and over coats. First came the tail coat from the Georgian coats which had started to slope back, the front's straightened off and started to be worn for formal occasions or my the richer people. It was high in the back of the neck, fitted in the back, chest and abdomen, had long tails and the wide “M notch” lapels so distinctive of the period. It could be either single or double breasted and could be worn open or closed. The tailcoat was usually made of wool though sometimes of linen for warm climates and seasons. Tight sleeves with gathered sleeve heads were the most common type of sleeve in this time for all types of jacket, small button vent cuffs started to be seen. There were many colour options for day wear but for evenings conservative darker ones such as black and navy were most fashionable. Buttons could be self-fabric covered or of brass or pewter.
Frock coats fell to the knee and often had wide collars, wide pointed revers, flap pockets and pleated detail with open vent. Narrow shoulders were common on all coats and waist coats which helped to show off the gathered shirt sleeves when coats were removed. Capes were often worn over an over coat for extra warmth.


  
Breeches/Trousers

Breeches started to change into the trousers that we now see today for men's formal wear. Silk stockings were still worn with beeches for awhile before being replace by boots. Trousers/breeches started to have pockets. Breeches were gradually fading out during this period. For a time they remained the proper item for evening wear then were relegated to only very formal occasions and then survived only as “court” apparel for certain royal occasions. Breeches could be made of wool, cotton, linen or silk with the latter best for the most formal events. They tended to have a higher waist in front and a little less baggy seat than the late 18th century version. However, they still had a drop front, were fitted in the thighs and buckled or buttoned just below the knees.Narrow cut trousers, ankle length with stirrrup under foot started to be worn. Trousers became commonplace during the Regency era. The trousers had a high waist line the came all the way up to the belly button. They were drop fronted and were held up by braces.Trousers were made of wool, linen or cotton. Though initially only appropriate for day wear they eventually gained acceptance for evening attire as well. There was a case were The Duke of Wellington was kicked out of a high class French club because he wore trousers instead of breeches.

Shoes
Buckled shoes gradually went out. Light slip on shoes with the buckle were popular however. Most shoes would be black and made of leather. Both low cut slip on shoes and ankle high boots were worn. Boots were high and of black or brown leather. "Bluchers," "Wellingtons" and a style very like modern English riding boots were all used.Toe caps started to come into fashion towards the end of this era which welcomed in the Victorian period.

Accessories
Deep cravats and bow ties,Typical of this era was a long, narrow strip of linen or silk which wrapped several times around the neck and was then tied in front. Many forms of tying were popular, some considered more formal and others most suitable for casual wear. Leather gloves, walking cane and  pocket watches were all very common during this time.

Hats
A very tall, straight top hat with a narrow curled up brim was the height of fashion during this period. The bicorn was high, wide and of shallow depth. It was popularized as a military fashion and was worn by Napoleon, though some civilians wore it too. Many specialized types of headgear were in use as well such as the flat, round hats of sailors.

Civil War Influence on Fashion:-
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/1812-french-mens-clothing
http://mens-fashion.lovetoknow.com/Civil_War_Fashion

References:-
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock
 Fashion History: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century by Akiki Fukai
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_suits
http://www.songsmyth.com/menday.html
http://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2009/08/29/what-men-wore-at-regency-assembly-balls/
http://janeaustensworld.wordpress.com/2013/06/21/regency-fashion-mens-breeches-pantaloons-and-trousers/
http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm
https://mmbennetts.wordpress.com/tag/regency-menswear/
http://www.regencyassembly.co.uk/Dress.html
http://www.periodclothing.co.uk/Regency_Fashion.htm
 http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/RegencyMen/RegencyMen.htm
Recreation of the Ball in Pride and Prejudice(TV show)

19th Century Basic Break Down

Credit:- http://terrizae.deviantart.com/art/19th-Century-Fashion-Timeline-462575158

Regency 1811- 1837

This is one of my favourite time periods for fashion because its so simple but looks so elegant. One of my favourite pieces I've found about this time period was a wonderful documentary were they recreated the ball in Pride and Prejudice:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01h8nFLsmB8
This is a must watch.

The Beginning:-
Fabrics which were widely used at the time included cotton, linen, muslin, wool fabrics and sheer fabrics. In richer societies silks and velvets were also used.  Striped and flowers were widely used as decoration. Embroidered bands, ribbons of different widths and lace were widely used and sot after for embellishing and adding detail to dresses. Pleats, ruffles and smocking were widely used on garments.

For the first time dresses were all in one piece with no bodice and skirt. Empire line dresses were widely worn. Dresses often has close fitting upper section with very gathered and loose fitting lower section. Shawl collars, low necklines, high collar with bow at the neck on jackets were all the rage with the younger generation. Lacy bonnet hats and older styled dresses with longer bodices were often worn by older woman. Tight fitted sleeves with full puff sleeves/ princess sleeves at the top were most common and often worn with just the puff sleeve during the summer.  High waisted coats were worn so as to complement the dresses underneath and often had a military look to them with deep collars and button details. Dresses were kept to an inch off the ground making it easier to walk and keep hems clean.

Accessories at the time were not elaborate with jewels and jewellery but more minimum. Wide brimmed hats with a shallow crown decorated with  flowers, ribbons/laces and  feathers also called bonnets were widely worn for daily wear and were often tied under the chin. Older women wore caps to cover the hair. Pearl necklaces and small chains were sometimes worn to big parties or events but not often worn daily.  Flat pumps and silk shoes for parties were widely worn. Narrow belts with buckle or ribbon were often worn to show off the high waist. Fans, parasols, elbow length gloves made from silk or lace were widely worn through high sociality. Small pearl buttons were often used on gowns and coats. Long shawls and scarf's tucked in round the neckline were often worn to add something different to the dresses.

The Change:-
Fashions started to go more extreme again with puff sleeves becoming more extravagant again and skirts started to have hoops under them to hold them out.  Multipliable layered collars and cuffs came in again. Elements from the Victorian era started to creep in like decorated hems, slopping shoulder-lines, drop earnings and big floral embroidery started to be used again.  Fringing on shawls, pleated collars, scalloped edges, narrow peplums, small narrow bonnets started to worn as dresses got wider again.

Movies and TV:- Emma 2009, Goyas Goests 2006, Pride and Prejudice 1995 series and 2005 movie, Vanity Fair 1998, Becoming Jane 2007, Bright Star 2009, Mansfield Park1999, Persuasion 1995,  Northanger Abbey 2007, Sense and Sensibility 1995, Little Dorrit 2008, Wuthering Heights 1992, The Count of Monte Cristo 2002, War and Peace 2007, Les Miserables 2012, Lost in Austin 2008, Byron 2003


References:-
Patterns of Fashion 2 by Janet Arnold
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/ppbrokil.html
http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-timeline/
http://thats-not-victorian.tumblr.com/post/34824134342/womens-fashion-timeline-19th-and-early-20th
Costume 1066-1990s by John Peacock

History Events:- Napoleonic wars. The First Railway. First Education Act.